Why did I love this book?
I loved this book because it was a well-written coming-of-age story about a boy growing up in Los Angeles and Hawaii in the 60s and 70s.
William Finnegan falls in love with surfing because his father encouraged him not to give up by going out to catch just a few more waves after a rough day. It takes him all over the world – to Portugal, the South Pacific, Australia, South Africa. He grapples with himself and his shortcomings and the book is introspective and emotional.
9 authors picked Barbarian Days as one of their favorite books, and they share why you should read it.
**Winner of the 2016 Pulitzer Prize for Autobiography**
Included in President Obama's 2016 Summer Reading List
"Without a doubt, the finest surf book I've ever read . . . " -The New York Times Magazine
Barbarian Days is William Finnegan's memoir of an obsession, a complex enchantment. Surfing only looks like a sport. To initiates, it is something else: a beautiful addiction, a demanding course of study, a morally dangerous pastime, a way of life.
Raised in California and Hawaii, Finnegan started surfing as a child. He has chased waves all over the world, wandering for years through the South…