My favorite books for exploring roads less traveled in Japan

Bashō’s poetic narrative of a journey he made in 1689 to northeastern Honshū is the most famous travelogue in Japanese literature. As a college student in 1970, I read a translation and imagined someday following the path of his journey to see what he saw. Over three decades later, I had the time, resources, and knowledge to make several road trips to do just that. After reading various translations, I found Sato’s the most helpful in understanding why Bashō visited the places he did and what his narrative and poems were about. As we drove along Bashō’s roads, Sato’s annotated text provided insights into the history and culture of Japan and its Tōhoku region. 

The delightful scenes in Hiroshige’s nineteenth-century woodblock print series known as “Fifty-three Stations of the Tōkaidō” beckon travelers to journey along the Tōkaidō, Japan’s most famous Edo Period road. The road connected Kyōto, the ancient Imperial capital, to Edo (Tōkyō), where the shogun’s castle was located. Delord, a French artist, makes the journey on a motor scooter. His book provides historical notes, personal experiences, and sketches and watercolors of the road’s fifty-three stations, or post towns where travelers could find lodging, porters, and packhorses. Delord’s contemporary images of modern asphalted highways and urban landscapes document how the road and towns have changed. But one can still recognize the scenes depicted in Hiroshige’s prints and find remnants of the old road.

Wilson describes his walking journey along the ancient Kiso Road through the Kiso Valley and the stops he made in the eleven post towns along the road. Today, some of the towns, like Narai, Tsumago, and Magome, are popular tourist destinations because they have maintained something of the look and character of the Edo Period, but in Wilson’s narrative, even the lesser known towns have something interesting to offer. Walker describes personal experiences with local people he met in the inns where he stayed and provides historical and literary backgrounds that add depth to his journey. The Kiso Road was the most scenic segment of the Kisokaidō (aka Nakasendō), the inland road between Kyōto and Edo during the nineteenth century.

Jansen’s book reproduces woodblock prints from Hiroshige’s Collection of Prints of Famous Places in the Sixty-odd Provinces (1853–1856), which features a print of a famous place from each of the sixty-eight provinces of Old Japan, plus a print of Edo. When I looked through the prints in 2018, some of the places, were familiar to me; others, I had never heard of. I realized we had visited about a third of the places, so I set out to see the rest. The sites, of course, look different from the prints, but navigating backroads to visit them was always interesting. Among the most memorable places we visited were Hōrai Temple, Monkey Bridge, Yōrō Waterfall, Mt. Haruna Shrine, Kanegasaka, Waterfall Bay, Gōkei Gorge, Gokansho, and the Kannon Hall at Abuto.

Trede’s book reproduces the woodblock prints from Hiroshige’s One Hundred Famous Views of Edo. When I first visited Tōkyō I felt overwhelmed by the city’s enormous size and complexity. Where to go and what to see? This collection of prints provided me with a way to begin exploring the many districts and neighborhoods of the city. While some of the places featured in the prints are well-known and recognizable today, others aren’t. Visiting the sites depicted, I could see how different modern Tōkyō was from nineteenth-century Edo, which led me to research the history of Tōkyō and how and why it has changed so much in the two centuries since Hiroshige produced his prints.