The most recommended mountaineering books

For any peakbagger living in the pacific northwest, the ultimate list of peaks is the hundred-highest mountains in Washington. This is the only guidebook dedicated to this list of peaks, and this was our primary resource when climbing these peaks. The authors have organized the peaks into “slams” where they figured out the optimal grouping of peaks to get the most out of any trip. They give excellent route descriptions and time estimates, which are very important for trip planning. 

I have always enjoyed reading a well-written subjective account of my fellow outdoor enthusiasts’ experiences during their chosen adventures. This book took it to another level.

While we all accept that the substantial rewards from our activities can carry substantial risks, we attempt to mitigate these risks whenever possible through experience and sound judgment. But sometimes Nature has her own agenda.

This heart-wrenching saga of a failed Everest expedition reinforced my motivation to prepare for the unexpected and served as a stark reminder that we have to be willing to pay the ultimate price for our rewards. But it also illustrated the fierce determination and selfless heroism that can be found in the human spirit.

What does mountaineering have to do with leadership? Far more than you might think.

Alison Levine extrapolates her experiences leading the first all-women team to attempt to summit Mt. Everest into clear lessons that, if you grasp them early, will turn you into an expedition leader at work. The book wraps great leadership advice in a compelling adventure story (Do they make it to the summit?), told with Alison’s signature wit.

It’s a quick and enjoyable read and a great start to your leadership library.

After years of vicarious adventure tales like The Coral Island and Treasure Island, as an adult I discovered a new source: true-life adventures. From the voyage of the raft Kon-Tiki to the epic trek by Robyn Davidson across Australia’s cruelest desert, my fascination with the human capacity for survival found a new revival. One of the most riveting books I’ve ever read in this genre is Touching the Void which, although non-fiction, is written in an extraordinarily poetic form by the two survivors, each of whom suffered terrible physical privations and even more terrible moral dilemmas while climbing in the snow-covered Peruvian mountains. That either of them survived is a miracle. That both of them did is a tribute to what humans can endure in order to survive.

Mountaineering attracts people of lionlike courage. What of the people who wait for them at home? When Maria Coffey started dating a climber, she found herself part of an exclusive club…and she soon needed them more than ever after her partner was lost in an accident. As she struggles through her bereavement she examines the adventuring nature, and the bravery needed to make a life with such a person.

We’re in fiction now. This is the story of Alice, a young professional woman with a settled life and reliable boyfriend, who jettisons it all when she meets Adam, a mountaineer. Adam is very broken, with PTSD after a tragedy in the mountains. I know climbers who would say the plot is sensationalist, but I’ve also met climbers who seem to have left their most vivid selves in that white otherworld. And this is the essential territory of Nicci French novels - people with dangerous edges and missing pieces, and how charismatic they are. 

Gerry Roach has climbed extensively in Colorado and has done a great job compiling his wealth of first-hand knowledge into this guidebook. This is the best resource we know of for climbing all the 14,000ft peaks in Colorado, and it was our main resource when climbing these peaks. He gives very detailed color-coded route maps, and describes a half dozen different route options for each peak. This is a must-have book if you are hiking and peak-bagging in Colorado.

Annapurna is a classic: a classic book about a classic climb. Annapurna is only the 10th highest mountain in the world, but it is the most dangerous of all 14 of the giants, those peaks over 8,000 meters. It should not even have been attempted under the circumstances described in this book. But never mind: the odds were utterly against success. No worries on that front; the French—they were the ones trying—were never going to be the first to summit a giant. Only no one told them. (Craig Storti’s forthcoming book retells this classic tale.)

I must admit that I have a very personal reason for liking this book. Paul Preuss was my great-uncle. This is a book more about mountaineering than about skiing, but as an elite mountaineer of the early 20th century, Preuss was a pioneer of skiing as well as mountain climbing. There have been three previous books written about Preuss’s life and exploits, two by renowned climber, Reinhold Messner and one by an Italian climber/author named Severino Casara, but the book by Mr. Smart is the first English language book about the life and achievements of Paul Preuss. Preuss was not only a prodigious climber who completed 300 solo climbs of which 150 were first ascents,

He was a philosopher of sorts. His strict adherence to a pure climbing ethic that shunned the use of any artificial climbing aids put him at the forefront of the “piton dispute”. Preuss’s stance on… show more.

This book is a collection of true short stories about the misadventures of 22 different climbers on New Hampshire’s iconic Presidential Range, particularly Mount Washington, between 1849 and 1994.

One of my other guidebooks cherry-picks the best routes in New Hampshire, one of my favorite places to stand atop a peak, which is why I first picked up this book. (I went to college in New Hampshire and then lived there for another 20+ years.)

The stories drive home how these exposed summits can surprise even experienced hikers in tragic ways. Nick Howe is a good writer, who has done his research. If you have an interest in climbing mountains or New England history, this is a must-read.