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The Cuban Sandwich: A History in Layers Paperback – September 2, 2022

4.8 4.8 out of 5 stars 31 ratings

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A delicious, multilayered tale of a legendary sandwich


Florida Book Awards, Gold Medal for Cooking


Creative Loafing Tampa Bay Best of the Bay Awards, “Best Approach to Pressing Matters”

How did the Cuban sandwich become a symbol for a displaced people, win the hearts and bellies of America, and claim a spot on menus around the world? The odyssey of the Cubano begins with its hazy origins in the midnight cafés of Havana, from where it evolved into a dainty high-class hors d’oeuvre and eventually became a hearty street snack devoured by cigar factory workers. In The Cuban Sandwich, three devoted fans―Andrew Huse, Bárbara Cruz, and Jeff Houck―sort through improbable vintage recipes, sift gossip from Florida old-timers, and wade into the fearsome Tampa vs. Miami sandwich debate (is adding salami necessary or heresy?) to reveal the social history behind how this delicacy became a lunch-counter staple in the US and beyond.



The authors also interview artisans who’ve perfected the high arts of creating and combining expertly baked Cuban bread, sweet ham, savory roast pork, perfectly melted Swiss cheese, and tangy, crunchy pickles. Tips and expert insight for making Cuban sandwiches at home will have readers savoring the history behind each perfect bite.



Publication of this work is made possible by a Sustaining the Humanities through the American Rescue Plan grant from the National Endowment for the Humanities.

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From the Publisher

A new perspective on a passionate, long-standing contest. Booklist review excerpt..

An excellent resource on Cuban history. Library Journal starred review.

A delicious look at Cuban history told through its most iconic meal.

Editorial Reviews

Review

“The book unpacks . . . layers of history like those of the sandwich itself . . . to understand where it came from and how it has evolved. It weaves together research and profiles of artisans who are making the sandwich in different parts of the world today.”—NPR


“Trace(s) the sandwich’s history not just as a food but as a vital expression of a complex culture, both on the island of Cuba and among the diaspora of its people.”—Tampa Bay Times


“Makes it clear the story of the Cuban sandwich is as mixed up and nuanced as the flavors of the sandwich. . . . The book is told in clean, bright prose, a pleasure to read.”—Miami Herald


“In this new perspective on a passionate, long-standing contest, University of South Florida academics Huse and Cruz and food writer Houck suss out the origins of the Cuban sandwich and steer readers through the intense, fraught debate between Miami’s and Tampa’s fiercely defended versions.”—Booklist


“An excellent, approachable resource on Cuban history told through the complexities of a beloved food item. Highly recommended for foodies and history buffs.”—Library Journal, Starred Review



“A delicious look at Cuban and Cuban American history told through its most iconic meal.”—Foreword Reviews



“Gives a detailed description of the Cuban sandwich and at the same time engages the intellectual and historical context of the creation and popularization of this sandwich.”—Latino Book Review


“A fun read that will prompt discussion. And many, many cravings.”—Orlando Sentinel


“Not only gives an impressive history of the sandwich but also offers firsthand accounts from restaurateurs and chefs who have made the preservation of the Cuban’s recipe, authenticity, and lore their mission.”—Local Palate


Review

“This title by University of South Florida faculty Huse (Florida studies) and Bárbara Cruz (social science education) and former Tampa Tribune food editor Jeff Houck takes readers on a culinary journey. It opens with the history of colonial Cuba, moves through the waves of migration in the 20th century, and uses the layered Cuban sandwich as a metaphor for the tiers of identity experienced by generations of Cubans living in the United States. The authors explore the history of the sandwich through the lens of the modern diaspora via interviews with well-respected, multigenerational bakers, chefs, meat packers, and owners of renowned Cuban bakeries, sandwich shops, and restaurants, while also providing readers with tips and recipes on how to make their own sandwich at home. VERDICT: The authors note that their research was limited by pandemic travel restrictions and the dearth of written sources available in the United States. That said, this is an excellent, approachable resource on Cuban history told through the complexities of a beloved food item. Highly recommended for foodies and history buffs.”—Library Journal, Starred Review



“In this new perspective on a passionate, long-standing contest, University of South Florida academics Huse and Cruz and food writer Houck suss out the origins of the Cuban sandwich and steer readers through the intense, fraught debate between Miami’s and Tampa’s fiercely defended versions. Florida had Cuban settlements long before 1959’s Cuban revolution, particularly in Key West and Tampa. In addition to their cigar-rolling skills, immigrants to Tampa’s Ybor City enclave imported from Havana’s late-night eateries the medianoche (midnight in Spanish): marinated roast pork, ham, cheese, mustard, and sweet pickles pressed between slices of egg bread. Reimagined on plainer Cuban bread, it was a Tampa specialty till the explosive growth of Miami’s Cuban community. To this day, the two cities feud over whose sandwich is the ‘authentic’ Cuban sandwich (Tampa’s version adds salami). The Cuban sandwich has become a phenomenon, spawning many regional variations throughout the U.S. Even the august America’s Test Kitchen has taken on the challenge, using its technical prowess to analyze, deconstruct, and engineer a perfect Cuban sandwich.”—Booklist

Product details

  • Publisher ‏ : ‎ University Press of Florida; 1st edition (September 2, 2022)
  • Language ‏ : ‎ English
  • Paperback ‏ : ‎ 180 pages
  • ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 0813069386
  • ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-0813069388
  • Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 12.8 ounces
  • Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 5.75 x 0.5 x 8.75 inches
  • Customer Reviews:
    4.8 4.8 out of 5 stars 31 ratings

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Bárbara Cruz
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Customer reviews

4.8 out of 5 stars
4.8 out of 5
31 global ratings

Top reviews from the United States

Reviewed in the United States on December 28, 2023
Great book for the Foodie you are trying to buy something for!
One person found this helpful
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Reviewed in the United States on November 30, 2022
I live in the state of California. When I visited Florida a few years ago, I got my first ever taste of the delicious Cuban Sandwich at the Floridian restaurant in Tampa. I enjoyed it very much. This book has interesting information about the Cuban Sandwich. Some of the interesting information about the Cuban Sandwich that is mentioned in this book include the following information: Active interest in the Cuban Sandwich online increased twelve-fold between 2014 and 2018. The Columbia Restaurant in Tampa's Ybor City which is Florida's oldest restaurant turns out a lot of Cuban Sandwiches. There are regional and local variations of the Cuban Sandwich with some places for example adding salami and some places not adding salami. The exact composition of the Cuban Sandwich was never settled, because it was always a matter of preference. I recommend this book to those people who want to know more about the Cuban Sandwich.
2 people found this helpful
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Reviewed in the United States on December 3, 2022
I have lived in Florida for 26 years now and I have always found the rivalry of the Miami Cuban sandwich vs. the Tampa Cuban sandwich to be an interesting one. This book provides an in-depth look into a sandwich with so much history and tradition behind it. From the recipes to the history to the information on the chefs and restaurants, this book is a great read for anyone. It educates you and makes you hungry at the same time! It is the perfect book for a gastronome or gourmand. I am now going to head to the Columbia Restaurant in Celebration, Florida this weekend for a Cuban sandwich!
One person found this helpful
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Reviewed in the United States on September 2, 2022
As a native Floridian, this book was fascinating to me. There are a few recipes but I found the history of the sandwich and Old Florida quite intriguing. The profiles of the chefs and restaurants were very much what I remember from growing up in Florida. Pork, ham, Swiss cheese, mustard and pickles, pressed to perfection on superb pan Cubano. Nothing Better!
2 people found this helpful
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Reviewed in the United States on June 8, 2023
A Miami native I have loved Cuban sandwitches all my life. This book tells of thie oragin in Tampa, to which they belong. I like them pressed.
2 people found this helpful
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Reviewed in the United States on September 15, 2023
I am a proud native of Tampa (third generation on my paternal side). I thought this book was very well-written and full of all the tidbits and information even I -- living here almost my entire life -- was anxious to learn and digest (pun intended)! Loved the history, the photographs and found myself craving a Cuban sandwich each time I picked up the book! Have purchased several copies for friends, who are always excited to receive this special gift. Highly recommend!
2 people found this helpful
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Reviewed in the United States on September 22, 2022
Dr. Cruz has done it again! Not only did I have the pleasure of having her as my mentor and teacher in college, but I now get to share her new wonderful book with my daughter, who also happens to be her goddaughter. This book is so cool to read, and makes me hungry! She always comes up with the coolest topics to research, and write about. This is by far the coolest book she's written. I can't wait until my daughter is old enough for me to read it to her. Definitely makes you want to have a Cuba sandwich afterwards!
One person found this helpful
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Reviewed in the United States on October 7, 2022
This was an in depth book about history and a sandwich which is deep in the hearts of many people, all trying to claim it as part of their heritage. Very enjoyable and informative read.
2 people found this helpful
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