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Essence and Alchemy: A Book of Perfume Hardcover – June 20, 2001

by Mandy Aftel (Author)
4.8 4.8 out of 5 stars 14 ratings
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An artisan perfumer reveals a lost art and its mysterious, sensual history.

For centuries, people have taken what seems to be an instinctive pleasure in rubbing scents into their skin. Perfume has helped them to pray, to heal, and to make love. And as long as there has been perfume, there have been perfumers, or rather the priests, shamans, and apothecaries who were their predecessors. Yet, in many ways, perfumery is a lost art, its creative and sensual possibilities eclipsed by the synthetic ingredients of which contemporary perfumes are composed, which have none of the subtlety and complexity of essences derived from natural substances, nor their lush histories. Essence and Alchemy resurrects the social and metaphysical legacy that is entwined with the evolution of perfumery, from the dramas of the spice trade to the quests of the alchemists to whom today's perfumers owe a philosophical as well as a practical debt. Mandy Aftel tracks scent through the boudoir and the bath and into the sanctums of worship, offering insights on the relationship of scent to sex, solitude, and the soul. Along the way, she imparts instruction in the art of perfume compositions, complete with recipes, guiding the reader in a process of transformation of materials that continues to follow the alchemical dictum solve et coagula (dissolve and combine) and is itself aesthetically and spiritually transforming.
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  1. Print length
    272 pages
  2. Language
    English
  3. Publisher
    North Point Press
  4. Publication date
    June 20, 2001
  5. Dimensions
    6 x 1 x 8.75 inches
  6. ISBN-10
    0865475539
  7. ISBN-13
    978-0865475533
  8. See all details
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The Amazon Book Review
The Amazon Book Review
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Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly

To this most extraordinary treatise on the history and making of perfume, Aftel, a writer and aroma designer, brings sheer delight in the bouquet of aromas in the natural world, as well as a "love for arcana" and an irreverent sensibility that embraces "little-acknowledged" aphrodisiacs like the smell of sweat. Smell is one of the most primal senses: even newborns orient first toward the smell of their mothers' milk. And world history is full of the manipulation of smell, she reveals, starting with the palace perfumers of ancient Egypt; the Israelite women who concocted essences for temple sacrifices; the Romans, who anointed nearly everything; the alchemists, who searched for the Divine Essence; all the way up to modern pheromone researchers who hope, finally, "to snare the sex drive." Aftel traces this history with witty anecdotes (Ben Franklin's plea for a drug to make sweet-smelling farts, Petrus Castellus's advice to rub civet directly on the penis) and well-chosen alchemical and botanical illustrations. After this seductive introduction, she shifts into the how-to mode, discussing the actual making of a scent, a process of selecting certain "base notes," adding "heart notes" and finally the "top chords." Her emphasis is on experimenting, and developing an "olfactory consciousness." Since organically based perfumes interact with the wearer, they must be designed for a particular user, not vice versa, as with commercial, synthetically based products. Aftel provides some sample formulas and concludes with a roundup of romantic, bathing and spiritual uses of perfumes. Agent, Peter Matson.

Copyright 2001 Cahners Business Information, Inc.

Review

"Even for those of us who may not be inspired to try our hand at the venerable art of the parfumier, this book has much to offer: fascinating facts about the history of perfume, its links with the ancient art of alchemy and the roles it has played in many cultures . . . Aftel proves an enthusiastic and knowledgeable guide." --Merle Rubin, Los Angeles Times

"Rarely has the glory of the sense of smell reached such heights as in the imaginative mind of sensory superstar Mandy Aftel." --Annette Green, President, Fragrance Foundation

Product details

  • Publisher ‏ : ‎ North Point Press; First Edition (June 20, 2001)
  • Language ‏ : ‎ English
  • Hardcover ‏ : ‎ 272 pages
  • ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 0865475539
  • ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-0865475533
  • Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 15.2 ounces
  • Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 6 x 1 x 8.75 inches
  • Customer Reviews:
    4.8 4.8 out of 5 stars 14 ratings

Customer reviews

4.8 out of 5 stars
4.8 out of 5
14 global ratings

Top reviews from the United States

Elaine G.
5.0 out of 5 stars Five Stars
Reviewed in the United States on November 18, 2017
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This is a divinely sensuous discussion of real perfume ingredients. Everything you need to know about combining essential oils.
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miajoycat
5.0 out of 5 stars Beautiful
Reviewed in the United States on January 8, 2019
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Beautiful book with actual recipes
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Amazon Customer
5.0 out of 5 stars When Mr. Gilbert Talks....
Reviewed in the United States on July 16, 2003
I am familiar with the few available sources of reliable information on perfumery, as well as the various treatises on sundry applications of natural botanical oils and extracts. Books offering expert insight into the individual ingredients used in natural Perfumery, such as Steffan Arctander's History of Natural Flavors and fragrance Materials, are quite scarce and far beyond the budget of most. Recent publications on the fundamentals of perfumery, such as Salvatore Paul Gimelli's Aroma Science, are highly technical and unsuited to those lacking a broad foundation in chemistry.
I would recommend that Ms. Mandy Aftel's Essence and Alchemy: A Book of Perfume be considered mandatory reading for anyone fascinated with natural oils and extracts, and the sensual world of Perfume. This is an ideal guide to the student and neophyte perfumer alike. Ms. Aftel has offered us a wonderful introduction to natural perfumery. Those seeking an historical study of perfumery will find in Essence and Alchemy exhaustive research distilled into a fascinating and elegant retelling. But more than providing us with a mere history of perfumery, Ms. Aftel has shared a wealth of knowledge gathered from her own experiences working as a professional perfumer. Essence and Alchemy offers a unique insight into a master perfumer's art. Ms. Aftel provides a most enchanting invitation to the world of natural perfume, and if ever a book may revitalize the all but lost art of natural perfumery, it is Ms. Aftel's Essence and Alchemy.
A reviewer has expressed strong disapproval over the inclusion of Animal derived materials, such as Civet, in Ms. Aftel's book.. Civet is certainly among the ingredients used in traditional natural perfumery. Civet can prove extremely difficult to work with, and a great deal of skill is required to successfully formulate with this ingredient. Competence in the application of Civet may serve as an indicator of the skill of a natural perfumer. Of course, use of Civet, or any animal derived ingredient is not necessary to make natural perfume. Vegetarians, Vegans, and many others who find animal derived materials unpleasant may work without them.
In my opinion, this reviewer has greatly overstated the role of animal derived materials as suggested in Essence and Alchemy. Nowhere in Essence and Alchemy does the Author "wax nostalgic on the world of perfumery when animals were hunted to extinction or worse for their essences". This remark is absurd, and hurtful. The author expresses no cruel delight in reminiscing over the decimation of species sacrificed in order to collect fragrant musk.. Civet Cats are not slaughtered to collect Civet Paste, which is a grease-like substance secreted from glands located below the animal's tail. Proper care of the cats will vary from keeper to keeper, but it is not necessary to do the animal harm while collecting Civet Paste. Any keeper who cares for the animals or values them as a source of livelihood will protect the cat's health as vigilantly as any dairy farmer would that of a milk cow. Civets are not considered endangered, and the Cat has no forerunners that have become extinct due to demands of the fragrance industry.
Further, it should be made clear that the reviewer is thoroughly in error that Civet Paste "....is illegal to import to the US, and illegal to sell". I have been professionally importing fragrance and flavor ingredients into the United States from around the world for six years, and I recommend all concerned parties peruse the Harmonized Tariff Schedule of the United States (2003) - supplement 1, Chapter Five, under the heading 0510.00.20.00, Ambergris, Castoreum, Civet and Musk. My personal recommendation to the reviewer is that they offer an apology and courteous retraction of the statement suggesting that Ms. Aftel has encouraged any illegal activity, such as the import or distribution of good labeled contraband in the United States.
But I digress...If you are interested in the art of natural perfumery, Ms. Aftel's Essence and Alchemy: A Book of Perfume is the best resource the available to you. Take advantage of a beautifully written book on a most fascinating topic!
54 people found this helpful
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nancy
5.0 out of 5 stars Essence & Alchemy
Reviewed in the United States on July 22, 2001
This just might be the best overall book on fragrance ever, ever written. It is of essential interest to the reader interested in perfume at most any level, from the connoisseur to the designer to the fabricator to the consumer. Mandy Aftel persists in creating perfumes from "all natural" ingredients, after "the trade" now relies on synthetics and scent enhancers and linear construction, even in the most expensive concoctions. And, here we're talking about QUALITY perfumes with history behind them, not new age, "go with the glow" infusions that are often a little reminiscent of the compost heap after the rain. For the general reader, Aftel references the history of fragrance preparation, from ancient times, through alchemists perfumery, to the great age of the perfection of the art in the late 19th and early 20th centuries. All the traditional ingredients are itemized, from essential incenses and oils used as the "base" to the citrus and floral essences used for the "heart" or middle notes, to the delicate and short-termed finishing high or "head" notes. The properties of each are well explored. More interested readers will be delighted to learn more about the character of what is going into their favorite perfumes and what combines and what doesn't. The reader considering dabbling in perfumery, will find this to be an excellent guide on how to start and continue to build fragrances from easily obtainable essences acquired by mail order.
135 people found this helpful
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Jason D. Florin
5.0 out of 5 stars enchanting!!
Reviewed in the United States on August 29, 2003
This book relates the historical facts about perfumes in an enjoyable, easy to read manner. The author does not limit herself to the descriptions of the typical essential oils listed in most books such as lavender, rose and jasmine, but also includes more exotic aromatics such as blood orange, champa, amberette, and cabreuva. She does not include the more medicinal smelling oils like thyme and tea tree in her recomendations as many other books do. However, this is a book on perfumary and the esthetic properties of the essential oils are the focus. For those interested in the technical and medicinal merits of the essential oils, this is not the book for you. The author does not promote the use of animal products; they are mentioned as these oils are a part of the history of perfumery, and still have a role , albiet diminished, in the modern perfume industry. Her discriptions of the various oils are detailed and her anecdotal references are interesting. She describes how to blend oils, offers suggestions on blending companions, and provides enough data to create your own blends. The oils are catagorized by note, and also according to family ie. resin, citrus, floral etc.She also includes recipies, indicates which oils are costly and/or difficult to find, and some sources. Overall, this is a well written, entertaining, and information packed book, which focuses on perfumery not chemistry.A sheer joy to read, and inspiring for the creative nature of blending essential oils.
66 people found this helpful
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Nadine
5.0 out of 5 stars Informative!
Reviewed in the United States on November 25, 2001
There are a number of books on perfume out there (be they ever so hard to get a hold of), and very few give any information other than what has been said before again and again. But this book actually delves a little deeper and touches on this subject with new and subtle observations not seen before. Very well done!
20 people found this helpful
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Amazon Customer
5.0 out of 5 stars Absolutely gorgeous
Reviewed in the United States on February 24, 2003
As a novice to perfumery, I found this to be an incredibly helpful introduction. It is written more stylishly than a good deal of novels, heavy on illustrations, and brimming full of information. Giving this book five stars just doesn't do it justice.
11 people found this helpful
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Top reviews from other countries

carolyn parkinson
5.0 out of 5 stars Fantastic service and Quality
Reviewed in the United Kingdom on November 20, 2018
Verified Purchase
Lovely book, just as expected
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