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Joe Yonan

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Cool Beans: The Ultimate Guide to Cooking with the World's Most Versatile Plant-Based Protein, with 125 Recipes [A Cookbook] Kindle Edition

by Joe Yonan (Author) Format: Kindle Edition

4.6 1,638 ratings

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Unlock the possibilities of beans, chickpeas, lentils, pulses, and more with 125 fresh, modern recipes for globally inspired vegetarian mains, snacks, soups, and desserts, from a James Beard Award-winning food writer

“This is the bean bible we need.”—Bon Appétit

JAMES BEARD AWARD NOMINEE • ONE OF THE BEST COOKBOOKS OF THE YEAR: Food Network, NPR, Forbes, Smithsonian Magazine, Wired

After being overlooked for too long in the culinary world, beans are emerging for what they truly are: a delicious, versatile, and environmentally friendly protein. In fact, with a little ingenuity, this nutritious and hearty staple is guaranteed to liven up your kitchen.

Joe Yonan, food editor of the Washington Post,provides a master base recipe for cooking any sort of bean in any sort of appliance—Instant Pot, slow cooker, or stovetop—as well as creative recipes for using beans in daily life, from Harissa-Roasted Carrot and White Bean Dip to Crunchy Spiced Chickpeas to Smoky Black Bean and Plantain Chili. Drawing on the culinary traditions of the Middle East, the Mediterranean, Africa, South America, Asia, and the American South, and with beautiful photography throughout, this book has recipes for everyone. With fresh flavors, vibrant spices, and clever techniques, Yonan shows how beans can make for thrillingdinners, lunches, breakfasts—and even desserts!

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February 4, 2020
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Editorial Reviews

Review

“Cool Beans . . . has been, by far, the cookbook I’ve cooked out of most this year. The book’s premise is a simple one: this food you thought was just ok, is actually really delicious, and really easy to make delicious in more ways than you likely thought possible.”—Daniel Modlin, The Daily Beast

“Joe Yonan’s obsession with the humble bean is a fascinating read. Creativity, passion, and knowledge are visible in every dish. From black chickpea hummus to red bean ice cream, each recipe is both surprising and completely achievable.”—Yotam Ottolenghi, author of Jerusalem and Ottolenghi Simple

“Where I come from in northern Spain, beans play a starring role in many of our dishes, so I am happy to see that Joe has cast beans as the lead in this book, showing us that they are capable of doing so much! Joe has always been a big thinker when it comes to eating better—both for our bodies and for our planet—and this book is a blueprint for reducing our meat consumption in a thoughtful and delicious way.”—José Andrés, chef and humanitarian

“Joe Yonan’s delectable Cool Beans is a collection of more than 100 very enticing recipes, all properly attributed to the source of inspiration. Aside from the recipes, there’s a great deal to learn in Cool Beans. This book should earn a place of honor in anyone’s kitchen. I know that it will in mine.”—Deborah Madison, author of Vegetable Literacy

“Joe Yonan has created the most fascinating and unexpected adventure into the world of beans. The best part is that you want to try every recipe, because he makes them easy, accessible, and irresistible. His knowledge, kindness, and sense of humor is such delightful company on every page. As you cook your way from soups to desserts, he also manages to open a window into fabulous cuisines around the world. He connects us all through an ingredient he loves. So excited and grateful for this book!”—Pati Jinich, star of Pati’s Mexican Table

“From the very first recipe in Cool Beans, you know you are in good hands. Joe Yonan’s collection of bean-based indulgences is hip without being pretentious, easy without being simple, and just plain inspiring, no matter how you eat. This book is a beautiful celebration of beans. It belongs in every kitchen.”—Steve Sando, founder of Rancho Gordo

About the Author

Joe Yonan is the two-time James Beard Award-winning food and dining editor of The Washington Post. He is the author of Eat Your Vegetables, which was named among the best cookbooks of 2013 by The Atlantic, The Boston Globe, and NPR's Here and Now, and Serve Yourself, which Serious Eats, David Lebovitz, and the San Francisco Chronicle named to their best-of-the-year lists. Joe was a food writer and travel section editor at The Boston Globe before moving to Washington in 2006 to edit the Post's food section. He writes the Post's "Weeknight Vegetarian" column and for five years wrote the "Cooking for One" column, both of which have won honors from the Association of Food Journalists.

Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.

Introduction

“We’re just here for the beans.”

That’s what we told the waiter at Maximo Bistrot in Mexico City, where my husband, Carl, and I were honeymooning.

We had considered a handful of destinations, but CDMX was at the top of our list for several reasons: we had scored cheap nonstop flights from Washington, DC; Carl had never been and I was eager to show him just what he had been missing; and what he had been missing, more than anything else, was the food.

For me, the appeal goes even deeper: Mexico City is not just the capital of our vibrant, fascinating neighbor to the south. It’s the seat of a culinary culture ruled by three kings: corn, chiles, and beans. And as a longtime vegetarian who reveres beans as the most important plant-based protein in the world and as someone who grew up in West Texas, immersed in Mexican-American culture, I consider Mexico the bean-all and end-all. Every Mexican chef I’ve ever met has waxed poetic about them: scoops of frijoles borrachos (drunken beans) nestled in fresh corn tortillas; complex stews made from slowly cooked black beans, fresh and dried chiles and the pungent herb epazote; and smoke-kissed purees slathered on fried masa boats, topped with lime-dressed greens. It’s one of the many reasons I’ve always felt at home there.

This time, I knew that on and among our visits to the floating gardens of Xochimilco, Frida Kahlo’s and Diego Rivera’s homes and museums, street food tours, art galleries, and markets, I would be on a mission to taste as many bean dishes as I could find. And in my research, one chef emerged as the bean whisperer: Maximo owner Eduardo “Lalo” Garcia. I had heard that he was passionate, with a fascinating background, and that he served a spectacular bean soup at his tasting-menu restaurant.

We got to Maximo an hour before our reservation, just so we could talk to Garcia about beans, which, no surprise, are one of his favorite subjects. In addition to his history lessons about them, Mexican cooking, and the impact of NAFTA on his country’s culture, he described his “very, very old-fashioned” soup, made with beans he gets from the state of Hidalgo. They’re called cacahuate, because they resemble peanuts when raw, but . . . he was fresh out.

Out? I’m sorry, what? We had come all that way to see the master of beans in the world capital of beans only to be told . . . no dice, no beans. A young Los Angeles chef had visited just a day or two earlier, Garcia explained, and he had sent her home with the rest of his stash. I had a hunch: “Was it Jessica Koslow from Sqirl?” He nodded, laughed that I would, of course, know all the other American bean obsessives, and then, when he saw my face fall and recognized the depth of my disappointment, he turned serious. He started scrolling through his phone, I assumed checking emails, texts, or calendar reminders. Good news: He was scheduled for another bean delivery that weekend. He hadn’t planned it, but he’d make the soup for us—that is, as long as we would still be in town and could return.

We would, we could, and we did. A few days later, as we sat down for lunch—the only customers in the place getting just the bean soup rather than the multi-course tasting menu—the anticipation started nagging at me. How good could these beans actually be?

The waiter brought us two big bowls of soup: the beans were super-creamy and golden in color, fatter than pintos, with a broth that was so layered and deep and, well, beany, that it made me swoon. It seemed so simple—just beans and broth and pico de gallo—that I could hardly believe how much flavor I was tasting. My husband, still recovering from a bout of Montezuma’s Revenge, seemed to come back to life before my very eyes. We tore into a basket of blue corn tostadas, and I slugged a Minerva beer in between spoonfuls of the soup. We left happy and restored.

Such is the power of the humble bowl of beans.

As a category of food, beans are old, ancient even. Forward- thinking cooks have been talking about ancient grains for years now—my friend Maria Speck helped popularize the idea in her book Ancient Grains for Modern Meals—but some beans are just as old as grains. According to Ken Albala’s masterful 2007 book Beans: A History, among the first plants domesticated, some 10,000 years ago, were einkorn wheat, emmer, barley—and lentils.

Lentils are so old that people who say lentils are shaped like lenses have got it backward; the world’s first lenses got their name because they were shaped like lentils. That’s old. In fact, there’s evidence that thousands of years before they were domesticated, in 11,000 BC, people in Greece were cooking wild lentils.

Pythagoras talked about fava beans, Hippocrates about lupinis, and one particularly famous orator is even more deeply connected to chickpeas: His family took its name (Cicero) from the legume’s genus (Cicer). Ancient Indian rituals and early Sanskrit literature feature mung beans. In the New World, the remains of beans were found in a Peruvian Andean cave dated to 6000 BC. Mentions of black beans show up in the writings of ancient Mayans. A little younger is the soybean, but it has made up for lost ground by becoming, as Albala writes, “the most widely grown bean on the planet, the darling of the food industries and genetically one of the most extensively modified of all plants.”

So why do beans have, well, something of a fusty reputation, especially here in the West?

I think a couple of things are going on: first, there’s the unavoidable association with hippies, the memories of three-bean chilis stirred by pot-smoking countercultural types. But perhaps more importantly, beans worldwide have almost always been associated with poverty. (An exception is India, where the prominence of vegetarian eating ensures that beans have been appreciated by the highest castes.) America, as a relatively young country built on grand ambitions and looking for inspiration, perhaps has historically paid more attention to the cooking of the world’s elite and less to the cooking of the more resourceful lower classes.

That’s been changing, thankfully. As immigrants continue to shape American cuisine and we pay more attention to our own native traditions, we’ve started to realize just how deep the roots of bean cookery go.

Product details

ASIN ‏ : ‎ B07RLRS57C
Publisher ‏ : ‎ Ten Speed Press (February 4, 2020)
Publication date ‏ : ‎ February 4, 2020
Language ‏ : ‎ English
File size ‏ : ‎ 206533 KB
Text-to-Speech ‏ : ‎ Enabled
Screen Reader ‏ : ‎ Supported
Enhanced typesetting ‏ : ‎ Enabled
X-Ray ‏ : ‎ Enabled
Word Wise ‏ : ‎ Enabled
Sticky notes ‏ : ‎ On Kindle Scribe
Print length ‏ : ‎ 240 pages

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4.6 1,638 ratings

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Joe Yonan

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I was born in Albany, Georgia, but before I was a year old, my family moved to San Angelo, Texas, where my father was stationed at Goodfellow Air Force Base. When my parents divorced, my bargain-hunting mother had me take advantage of the fact that I still had the base privileges that she had lost; she handed me cash and a list every week and took me to the commissary to shop for the whole family. If I came under budget and got everything on the list, I could splurge on something for myself. (I was 8 and loved every minute of it. When a bag boy followed me out to the car that first time, before he saw my waiting mother, he quipped, "Don't tell me you drive, too.")

My Indiana-born mom also nurtured my cooking bug -- indulging me when I demanded to use her stand mixer to whip the cream and mash the potatoes, and letting my good-old-boy-Texan stepfather teach me to make my first real dish: chicken-fried steak.

Fast-forward a few decades, and I love to make my own corn tortillas and pizza dough, cook dinner for friends and my husband every chance I get, and help watch over a goofy lab/hound mix, Roscoe, and a mischievous cat, Nelson.

I'm also Food and Dining editor for The Washington Post, where I write the regular Weeknight Vegetarian column. Back when I was single, I wrote a column that inspired my first book, "Serve Yourself: Nightly Adventures in Cooking for One" (Ten Speed Press, 2011). While transitioning to a plant-based diet, I followed it up with "Eat Your Vegetables: Bold Recipes for the Single Cook" (Ten Speed Press, 2013), written while I spent a year on my sister and brother-in-law's Maine homestead, where they grow all their own food. I also edited "America The Great Cookbook," a beautiful compendium of photo-portraits and recipes from chefs and other food heroes from around the country, and a benefit for the wonderful charity No Kid Hungry. In it, we show the awesome diversity of the American food scene.

I've won awards for writing and editing from the James Beard Foundation, Association of Food Journalists, International Association of Culinary Professionals and the Society of American Travel Writers, and my work has been featured multiple times in the "Best Food Writing" anthology.

My latest book is "Cool Beans: The Ultimate Guide to Cooking with the World’s Most Versatile Plant-Based Protein, with 125 Recipes," an ode to my favorite ingredient, one I think could be important in helping feed a growing planet. What other source of such nutrition is as affordable, shelf-stable and versatile? I hope you love it.

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I Do The Speed Limit

"Cool Beans!" An exclamation used to express approval and delight. So true with this book!

Reviewed in the United States on February 16, 2020

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"Cool Beans!" Surely it's an expression to shout from your roof top once you start working with this book.

Rather than write a review the day after the book was published, it took me somewhat longer to work with some of the recipes here and formulate my thoughts. I’ve still not covered all the recipes that I’ve got marked, but I’ve made up my mind that this is a very worthy book. And, hey, don’t forget to browse through the “Look Inside” feature on this product page. Ten Speed Press always does a great job of giving you, ahead of time, a good indication of the quality of the cook book you are considering buying. And, by perusing the contents and index pages, you can see the titles of all the chapters and most, if not all, the recipe names, plus see all pertinent ingredients.

At the top of your list, “Good Reasons to Buy this Book”: It’s by Joe Yonan, a personable and true journalist who’s been with the Washington Post for a long time and who is dedicated to communication, teaching and learning. Personally, as I have most of his other cook books, and as I try to keep up with his Washington Post articles, I knew this book would be full of great material. And it is. If you don't believe me, and that's not enough to make you want to buy this book on beans, keep reading.

IT’S ALL ABOUT BEANS! “COOL BEANS”! Those two words are an exclamation that will always remind me of my daughter, cause’ that was a favorite saying of hers during her younger days. So I felt a connection with this book before I even opened its pages. And, it’s JUST about beans and veggies, because Yonan has eliminated meat from his diet. So, meat eaters be aware: If you can’t picture your beans without a ham hock or whatever, you will need to add meat and meat flavorings to the ingredient lists yourself. And that’s a simple thing to do. (I’m saying these recipes can easily be adapted to accommodate those families and cooks that are leaning away from meat, but who have not eliminated it from their diets.)

I was happy to see the great variety of beans represented in these recipes. (Although I personally found a few too many chickpea recipes.) So if you are anything like me--with a few burlap sacks from Dove Creek (Adobe Milling) sitting picturesquely in a corner, nestled next to a wicker basket filled with the latest Bean Club order from Rancho Gordo, and another basket of lady cream peas, baby green limas and gorgeously-colored kidney beans from Camellia—this is a book suited perfectly for you. Hey, it’s a book for all bean lovers, and all those with favorites, as Yonan includes dried, fresh, and canned beans, peas and lentils in his ingredient lists. And he includes alternatives in his instructions and tips, too.

Okay, so for the past few weeks I’ve been cooking beans almost every day it seems. And the house is always fragrant with what’s on the stove. Yonan does provide instructions for cooking them on the stove like I do. But, more importantly, because I’m not in the majority anymore, and Yonan gives instructions for pressure cooking and multi-cooker and Instant Pot cooking. (He uses a pressure cooker, I believe.) He covers all the different ideas and techniques for cooking consistently perfect beans—soft and creamy inside and with skins intact and not tough. He mentions Rancho Gordo and ATK and individual authors and cooks when discussing techniques; brining, and using kombu, too.

And because this book has put me in the mood to cook multitudes of beans, having his chapters on salads and dips and snacks, plus his tips on freezing and storing, are preventing those cooked beans from building up in the frig. The dips in this book are so, so good—I’ll always be prepared for surprise visitors and healthy snacking with a few of these made up.

It still being wintertime, I’m delving more into the soup, stew, one dish and casserole recipes than into the chapter of salads. (Although there is a Christmas Lima, Kale and Tomato Salad that Ranch Gordo fans will be very happy with, and a Lady Cream Pea, Sweet Potato and Charred Okra Salad for the Camellia clientele.)

In my last Rancho Gordo Bean Club box, I got a package of a “prized”, hard-to-find, black beans called Santenera Negro Delgado. There is a very fine Smoky Black Bean and Plantain Chili. And if you need an introduction to using plantains (other than fried), this is the recipe to try. It will be a revelation! There’s another Cuban-Style black bean Stew-soup recipe with orange flavor, and that’s a great idea that I’ve not even seen in any of my Cuban cook books. But what I think is the BEST black bean recipe in this book? It’s the Salsa Madre, which they are calling “Black Bean Mother Sauce Puree”. And that is what I used my Santenera Negro Delgado beans to make. I will forever be grateful for the great timing of my Bean Club order and the publication of this book. It was an ideal opportunity to honor both the bean and the recipe.

I am a huge fan of Lady Cream Peas, fresh or dried. This one recipe alone--for Roasted Tomato and Pepper Soup--is worth the price of this book. I’ve salivated over many of the pictures in this book, but the idea of including Lady Cream Peas in a roasted tomato and pepper soup makes me crave it just thinking about it.

Oh, and speaking of pictures: For those of you who believe it matters, there is NOT A PICTURE for each recipe. There are 50 pictures of prepared beans, plus some other pictures of dried beans and beans cooking. There are about 125 recipes. Sure, I’d like to see more pictures, (especially for something hard to see in my mind's eye, like the skewers of mushrooms and gigante beans), but I think a lot of bean dishes would start looking a bit too similar after a while. And I bet someone, soon, will post a picture of that satay somewhere…… Plus, if I had to choose between a picture and a recipe--I'd choose another recipe every time!

Some unusual and worthy recipes: A White Bean Brandade; Texas-Style Bowl O’ Red—beans, no meat; and a spectacular Show-Stopping Whole Roasted Cauliflower (on a bed of contrasting-color hummus), and Rigatoni E Ceci (with chickpeas).

Some simple, worthy recipes: Marinated Lima Beans; a vegan Southern Baked Beans; Spicy Ethiopian Red Lentil Dip; Chickpea Aioli, and a Salty Margarita Sour, (and plenty of info on aquafaba).

Some others worth noting, that I’d like to try before Spring arrives: Ratatouille Cassoulet and Root Vegetable, White Bean and Mushroom Cassoulet. There’s even a Chickpea and Quinoa Chorizo for those who strictly avoid meat.

I am very grateful to have this book now. There are not many good bean cook books out there, you know? And oftentimes—while I can make some pretty mouthwatering bean dishes with my usual basics (Working with great beans, how can you not make a great bean-based or one-bowl dinner?)—it still gets to be same old, same old. This book helps me out of that rut.

206 people found this helpful

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JW SLO

Provides a lot of options for beans

Reviewed in the United States on March 11, 2024

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I was looking to include more beans in my diet. This book is definitely well written and has worth while recipes. The only thing I would have preferred were some non solely vegetarian recipes, but I added some meat into some of the recipes to make them a little more satisfying. But this is nice book.

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Wendy D.

Great tasting healthy recipes that take some time.

Reviewed in the United States on December 30, 2020

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So, I have made several of these recipes and found them to be delicious and nutritious. (Vegetarian Sloppy Joes are a favorite.) They do take some time, but often the beans can be cooked ahead.

The formatting of the recipe instructions is in paragraphs, not numbered steps, so read the whole recipe before you start so that you know and how long it will take. Overall, the flavors of the beans/vegetables shine and the recipes are worth the effort.

A couple of seasonings are hard to find (e.g. Blue Fenugreek and Zatar.) In the recipes that call for Zatar, I would use less. I added more pepper/red pepper to some recipes, as the amount called for seemed to be less than enough.

Deducting one star for formatting - numbered steps would have been clearer. Also, a line at the top of the recipe giving active & total time would have been great. No nutrition info.

11 people found this helpful

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Kindle Customer

Loaded with great recipes

Reviewed in the United States on March 15, 2024

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This beautiful book is full of excellent recipes! Lovely photos, clear directions, delicious results.

One person found this helpful

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MCG

So many dog-eared to try

Reviewed in the United States on July 19, 2021

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This cookbook is exactly what I hoped for. I like to cook a basic rotation of simple, nutritious foods but it’s easy to get in a rut with olive oil, lemon and garlic (my favorite combo). This book keeps to my same staples (beans, whole grains, veg) but jazzes them up with new seasonings that can be tracked down at Whole Foods, Trader Joe’s, and co-ops. Cooking with miso is new for me and I dig it as an alternative to vegetable broth. It was wonderful in the Orrechiete with Bitter Greens and Lemony Breadcrumbs. We’ve loved the two cauliflower recipes—the roasted whole head with hummus, and Morrocan ful with sumac-rubbed grilled cauli.

I find Yonan’s baseline of veganism perfectly suitable in this book (and I’m neither vegan nor vegetarian). Vegan recipes can be daunting when they call for substitutes or alternative ingredients. But with the simple bean as the canvas, you don’t have to venture too deeply into the health food store (unless that’s your jam!). Likewise, these recipes don’t leave me with the sensation that anything is lacking—most of them can make a one-dish meal in themselves; where the recipes would be complimented by cheese or yogurt, it is stated; and meat-eaters can grill their favorites to accompany any recipe.

The recipes are portioned out reasonably for a single meal (2-3 people), but not for leftovers or a crowd. Again, we are one-dish meal people, so will double accordingly in the future!

17 people found this helpful

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Gary Bowden

Great Book for Novice (or Long Time) Bean Afficianado

Reviewed in the United States on February 5, 2020

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Joe Yonan's recipes are easy to follow and accurate. His preface for the book is enjoyable to read and informative, as are the recipe introductions; each give you a sense of who Joe is and how he was inspired to write this unique book. As a cook just starting to integrate more beans into our diet, and who does not yet own an Instapot, I appreciate that Joe recognizes there are times when you can substitute canned beans or alternative beans that may be easier to find. The section titled "Bean Pantry" at the end is a great description of the bean varieties. As soon as the book arrived we made the delicious "Red Gem Salad" - rush to try this! And the "White Bean Brandade" was indeed a "warm and bubbly" (and delicious) alternative to a traditional cod brandade. The photographs will entice you to try many of these recipes and learn the benefits of the "musical fruit" (at least that is how I remember the age-old rhyme being told growing up in Ohio.)

48 people found this helpful

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Jillian

Wonderful book

Reviewed in Canada on March 3, 2024

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As a former bean hater, this has been a great cookbook to change my mind. Wide range of recipes that use every type of bean you can think of.

LL

Great recipes, not so clear methods and measures

Reviewed in Germany on July 31, 2022

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Given English language recipe books are sold internationally publishers really should insist that they include metric units for measures. This book is only in American cooking units which is frustrating. Also, some of the recipes lack clarity forcing you to guess what the writer means.

One person found this helpful

juso94

Muchas ideas pero es un poco duro de leer por la falta de imágenes

Reviewed in Spain on September 7, 2020

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Se nota que es un gran libro, pero esperaba más de un libro de cocina. Es bastante teórico.

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Lolamon

Legumes lovers delight.

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on April 20, 2020

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If you're vegan, looking for inspiration, and love all kinds of legumes, this is for you. Worth every penny. Going to try growing my own beans this year, just so I can try some of the recipes. If you are based in Europe or UK, there are quite a few exotic ingredients,(coconut aminos, peppers in adobe, dried ancho chillies, etc.), but many of these can be found in the bigger supermarkets now, health food shops, or on Amazon. There is a vital page in the first chapter that shows the categories of beans, and their substitutions. If you live in the US, it will be a lot easier to get many of the ingredients, I think. Still a brilliant book, from a brilliant writer, who generously credits many other chefs when he uses their recipes for inspiration.

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