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Leave Only Footprints: My Acadia-to-Zion Journey Through Every National Park Paperback – April 6, 2021

by Conor Knighton (Author)

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NEW YORK TIMES BESTSELLER • “A delightful sampler plate of our national parks, written with charisma and erudition.”—Nick Offerman, author of Paddle Your Own Canoe

From CBS Sunday Morning correspondent Conor Knighton, a behind-the-scenery look at his year traveling to each of America's National Parks, discovering the most beautiful places and most interesting people our country has to offer

NAMED ONE OF THE BEST BOOKS OF THE YEAR BY OUTSIDE

When Conor Knighton set off to explore America's "best idea," he worried the whole thing could end up being his worst idea. A broken engagement and a broken heart had left him longing for a change of scenery, but the plan he'd cooked up in response had gone a bit overboard in that department: Over the course of a single year, Knighton would visit every national park in the country, from Acadia to Zion.

In Leave Only Footprints, Knighton shares informative and entertaining dispatches from what turned out to be the road trip of a lifetime. Whether he's waking up early for a naked scrub in a historic bathhouse in Arkansas or staying up late to stargaze along our loneliest highway in Nevada, Knighton weaves together the type of stories you're not likely to find in any guidebook. Through his unique lens, America the Beautiful becomes America the Captivating, the Hilarious, and the Inspiring. Along the way, he identifies the threads that tie these wildly different places together—and that tie us to nature—and reveals how his trip ended up changing his views on everything from God and love to politics and technology.

Filled with fascinating tidbits about our parks' past and reflections on their fragile future, this book is both a celebration of and a passionate case for the natural wonders that all Americans share.

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From the Publisher

Nick Offerman says, “a delightful sampler plate of our national parks, written with charisma.”


“I fell hard for the sled dogs of Denali. The canine rangers have been part of the park since its inception—I arrived just in time to cuddle some of the new recruits.”	“I felt drawn to these places: peaks and streams and fields and valleys that had existed for millions of years but had waited until this specific year to turn their siren song on me.”	"Our largest national park— Alaska’s Wrangell-St. Elias— is home to the largest systems of glaciers in the country."

Editorial Reviews

Review

“Conor Knighton is not only blessed with Charles Kuralt’s peripatetic curiosity and John Muir’s reverence for nature, he shares their all-too-rare gift—his writing makes you want to hit the road and see for yourself what truly makes America great.”—Mark Adams, New York Times bestselling author of Turn Right at Machu Picchu

“A touching, funny tour of the weird and wonderful in the American wild. If you love our national parks, you’ll love visiting them all with the thoughtful, always entertaining Conor Knighton as your witty, energetic guide. His enthusiasm is contagious and shines on every page.”—Steve Hely, author of The Wonder Trail

“I am crazy about this book. It’s a delightful sampler plate of our national parks, written with charisma and erudition and leavened by a healthy dollop of humor. When Conor Knighton tells you to take a hike, you’d do well to pay attention.”—Nick Offerman, author of Paddle Your Own Canoe

“You don’t have to be a national parks geek like me to love this book. However, in Conor Knighton’s capable hands, you will be a national parks geek as soon as you dip into this great narrative.”—Rinker Buck, author of The Oregon Trail: A New American Journey

“In Leave Only Footprints, Conor Knighton does what would require a lifetime for the rest of us. Over the course of a year, he goes on a mission of discovery, sharing something new and fresh about each of our national parks and encouraging us to also visit—and preserve—the places that reflect Americans at our best.”—Jonathan Jarvis, eighteenth director of the National Park Service

“Knighton is a companionable guide, light on his feet, with a steady store of . . . excellent descriptive passages, good background material, and a few sweeping insights into why national parks are so essential. . . . A fine tour d’horizon of our national grandeur.”—Kirkus Reviews

About the Author

Conor Knighton is an Emmy-winning correspondent for CBS Sunday Morning, America's #1 Sunday morning news program. Depending on your cable package, you may have also seen him hosting shows on Current TV, AMC, and The Biography Channel or providing commentary for the likes of MTV, E!, and CNN. He has been to all of America's national parks and what feels like 40 percent of its Hampton Inns.

Excerpt. © Reprinted by permission. All rights reserved.

Chapter 1

Sunrise

(Acadia)

Yellowstone was the world’s first national park. The first sentence on the park’s website makes sure you are aware of that bit of trivia. To be first is to be remembered.

Every journalist wants to be the first to publish a story. Every company wants to be the first to market with their product. Every kid in my first-grade class in West Virginia knew local hero Chuck Yeager was the first pilot to break the sound barrier. Who was the second? They didn’t teach that in school.

But first does not always mean best (although in Yellowstone’s case, it just might). Still, a first kiss, a first love, a first date—these are the moments that we memorialize, even if they end up not being all that great. First equals special.

That may be why there are so many spots that claim to offer the first view of the sunrise in the United States. The sunrise marks the first light of a new day, and town tourism bureaus across the country claim that they alone are where you can see that light before anyone else. Of course, with the sunrise, being first is just a matter of seconds.

Guam bills itself as “Where America’s Day Begins.” Out in the middle of the Pacific, closer to Japan than to Hawaii, Guam is fourteen hours ahead of the East Coast, since it lies just west of the International Date Line. But to count Guam as the first sunrise almost seems like cheating, especially since, fifteen hundred miles farther east, there’s Wake Island, an air force base where the sign on the runway once read Where America’s Day Really Begins. Dang, Wake Island. Way to throw a little sunrise shade.

After passing over Asia and Europe, the sun eventually shines on Cadillac Mountain at Acadia National Park in Maine. From mid-September through mid-March, this is where the first rays of sun are said to hit the contiguous United States. Even that honor is true only during the winter months, since the tilt of the earth affects the sun’s position on the horizon. In the summer, Mars Hill, Maine, sees the first light. (And since both spots are pretty remote, Eastport, Maine, advertises itself as the first city to see the sun rise.) Perhaps there’s a reason an asterisk looks just like a sun.

Anyway, as far as I can tell, on January 1, the highest peak of Acadia National Park is the first place in the contiguous United States to see the sun rise. The first sunrise on the first day of the year. And so that’s where I decided to kick off my quest to see every national park in the country. I knew it was going to be a busy year—I wanted to get a head start.

In the summer, tour buses can drive to the top of Cadillac Mountain in a matter of minutes. But in the winter, the road shuts down. Everything shuts down. In the nearby town of Bar Harbor, even big chain hotels put up see you next spring signs. Only a few restaurants stay open, feeding the locals who have decided to brave the winter.

Those who stay have a national park to themselves. Acadia gets 80 percent of its visitors in just four months of the year, but it’s gorgeous in the winter—crystal blue lakes become bright-white ice-fishing destinations, hillsides become ski runs, and the road that leads to the top of Cadillac Mountain, covered in snow, becomes a dangerous, slippery hike.

. . .

My headlamp shone on the first part of the road, illuminating the snow in the distance and my breath in front of my face. I could see sets of fresh bootprints up ahead, both reassuring and unsettling. There were other people out here in the dark, other people who had gotten up even earlier than I had to climb this mountain. Wherever they were, I couldn’t hear them—the only sound came from my brand-new boots, crunching down into the snow.

On my drive to the park, I had passed people who were still coming home from their drunken celebrations. The night before was the first time since I was seven that I didn’t count down to the New Year. It was the first time—ever—that I spent New Year’s Eve by myself. The desk clerk at the Hampton Inn back in Ellsworth thought I was joking when I asked for a 3 a.m. wake-up call. I was in bed by ten. I slept with the lights on so that, when the early-morning call came, I’d be less tempted to go back to sleep.

I was wide awake now—the freezing air made sure of that. I took a swig from my thermos, full of mid-tier chain-hotel lobby coffee. I could feel it more than I could taste it, the hot liquid sliding down my throat and warming my entire body. It felt amazing. I wanted to keep drinking, but I was nervous: I know what happens if I drink too much coffee. I didn’t fly all the way to Maine to begin the year by taking a shit in the snow.

Acadia is on Mount Desert Island—pronounced by the locals more like de-ZERT. Which, sadly, makes it sound way more delicious than it really is. In the 1600s, French explorer Samuel de Champlain named the area l’Isle des Monts-déserts, because the mountain summits were so bare and rocky. “Deserted.”

Of course, Native Americans were here thousands of years before Champlain. This will be a common theme at almost every park I visit. A “discovery” of land that was already inhabited by someone else, a history written by white settlers. The Wabanaki, “the people of the Dawnland,” greeted the dawn on this island long before the first wave of French Jesuits arrived.

Maine seems so quintessentially New England that it’s hard to remember it was once New France. It might have stayed that way too had an English ship not attacked the Jesuits just as they were starting to do some baptizing. For the next 150 years, Mount Desert Island was plunged into a series of small skirmishes, but neither side really cared that much. Nobody saw much value in Acadia.

Nobody except for Antoine Laumet. Laumet immigrated to New France in 1683 and decided to reinvent himself, a process that began with making up a hilarious fake name and title: “Antoine Laumet de la Mothe, sieur de Cadillac.” He allegedly made up all sorts of stories about his nobility and military conquests and eventually talked his way into a land grant of one hundred thousand acres—all of Mount Desert Island.

While the “sieur de Cadillac” didn’t last long in Maine—the farming life wasn’t for him—the chilly mountain I was walking up still bears his invented name. As does an eighty-thousand-dollar Escalade, by the way. It’s the same damn Cadillac. This Talented Monsieur Ripley went on to found Detroit.

Plodding uphill in the snow was making me sweat, and I stripped off another layer. Most of what I was wearing was purchased two days earlier at Gander Mountain Sports in West Virginia, or “Redneck REI,” as my pal from high school lovingly described it. As a matter of policy, REI doesn’t sell guns, bows, or even fishing rods, but the entire back half of Gander Mountain is an arsenal. REI goes after hippie hikers; Gander Mountain is more for hardcore hunters. But there’s overlap in that Venn diagram—both groups need synthetic long underwear to stay warm. I had picked up a pair before I left my family’s weeklong Christmas celebration to head north by myself.

There was no camera crew coming today. Despite my best efforts, I still hadn’t totally convinced the bosses at CBS Sunday Morning that a series of stories on the national parks would be worth airing. There was some understandable concern back in New York that the whole thing “might just end up being a lot of trees.” I’m sure they were also worried that I might be the wrong guy for the job. I was just an occasional freelancer, a pinch hitter infrequently called upon when other, more established correspondents weren’t available.

But they had said they were intrigued, and that was all the encouragement I needed to book my ticket to Maine. I brought along a cheap video camera so I could capture some of my own footage. No trees, I reminded myself. Just people. A few shots of people who—like me—felt compelled to begin their year with an uphill climb in the dark.

Approaching the top, the pavement started to become visible again. I’d forgotten I’d been walking up a road this whole time, but, sure enough, there was a double yellow line, peeking out for the first time underneath the blanket of snow. It didn’t make sense at first; I was much higher up than when I’d started. Shouldn’t there be way more snow up here? But then I figured out what was happening. I felt what was happening.

Powerful gusts of wind whipped at the mountaintop, blowing the snow away and exposing patches of slick ice underneath. The black ice was almost impossible to see in the dark, leading to several stumbles but no outright falls. The traction on my new boots had passed its first test.

When I finally reached the summit, there was no triumphant view to take in. Not yet, anyway—I’d arrived too early. As I jumped up and down to stay warm, I could hear muffled voices coming from somewhere nearby, and I scanned for the source. Eventually, my headlamp reflected off a bright-green parka, and I walked toward a father and son huddling under some rocks to shield themselves from the wind. I asked if I could film them. I knew this was a moment I would want to include—proof that other people started their year this way. That I wasn’t the only crazy one.

Product details

Publisher ‏ : ‎ Crown (April 6, 2021)
Language ‏ : ‎ English
Paperback ‏ : ‎ 336 pages
ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 1984823558
ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-1984823557
Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 8.8 ounces
Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 5.2 x 0.74 x 8 inches

Best Sellers Rank: #24,748 in Books (See Top 100 in Books)
- #44 in Travelogues & Travel Essays
- #75 in Traveler & Explorer Biographies
- #922 in Memoirs (Books)

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Conor Knighton is an Emmy-winning correspondent for CBS Sunday Morning, America's #1 Sunday morning news program. Depending on your cable package, you may have also seen him hosting shows on Current TV, AMC, and Bio Channel or providing commentary for the likes of MTV, E!, and CNN. He has been to all of our national parks and what feels like 40% of our Hampton Inns.

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Alisha

My favorite non-fiction book

Reviewed in the United States on August 17, 2022

Verified Purchase

Loved this book. Definitely on my top non-fiction of all time list. In the aftermath of a heartbreak, CBS correspondent Conor Knighton has the crazy idea that, just maybe, what he wants to do next is visit every national park within a year. What follows is over 50 episodes that are by turns inspiring, educational, funny, sobering, healing, and eye-opening.

I actually loved that this wasn't a deep dive into every park, it was more of a fly-over but with moments of insight and carefully selected (but not overwhelming) details. Honestly, this makes it a very appealing read for anyone who struggles with distraction while reading. Before one's attention has time to wander, we're on to the next park.

He organizes his narratives by themes, such as Mystery, Sound, Borders, Home, and Sunset. Tying seemingly unrelated parks together this way made for fascinating reading. For instance, who would ever talk about Cuyahoga Valley, just outside Cleveland, in the same breath as Gates of the Arctic? And yet it works.

And so many of the parks were ones I really had no reference point for. So it was the best kind of "I'm really learning something" reading experience, kind of like when you're a little kid learning about the seven wonders of the world for the first time. It recaptures that feeling.

7 people found this helpful

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K. E. Lindholm

Excellent Book Based on the CBS Sunday Morning Series

Reviewed in the United States on May 29, 2020

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This is a lovely book that vastly exceeded my expectations! We watched many of Conor Knighton’s segments on CBS Sunday Morning as he visited the National Parks, and I looked forward to reading about it.

First, this book is not a guidebook to the National Parks - there are many of those, and one more would add little to those already available. Instead the book is much more personal, relating the author’s life to the places he visits. He also presents the parks, not in a chronological sequence, but by tying individual ones together through common features that stood out for him based on his visits. For examples, some chapters might be as simple as “Volcanoes” or “Trees”, but then another will be “Sound” (which touches on Great Sand Dunes and Katmai national parks - I was not even aware of the latter park).

This personal approach on the author’s thoughts and recollections was, in my opinion, definitely the right choice. It also reminded me of the Martin Scorsese quote referenced at this year’s Academy Awards by South Korean Director Bong Joon-ho. “The most personal is the most creative”.

One chapter in the book “People” also struck a personal chord with me. Knighton relates the story of visiting Zion NP on a family trip in July 1995, and how they didn’t finish the hike to Angel’s Landing. At the time, Knighton was the age of our sons - we also visited Zion NP, but in June 1995. We did the same hike with some of the same concerns. My sons and I finished the final portion, but my wife and daughter stopped prior to reaching the final “landing” (and the 1500 foot drop offs!).

I read the book in short bursts, usually no more than two chapters at a time, so that I could enjoy Knighton’s observations at a leisurely pace. I’ve been fortunate to have visited many of the parks, and I have fond memories of those visits. I was sad when I reached the last chapter... and the journey ended.

25 people found this helpful

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Alksped

Wow! ❤️

Reviewed in the United States on February 24, 2024

Verified Purchase

I’m a National Park “junkie” and grew up camping with my family. Exploring every park is a dream, so reading about a young man who did it after a heartbreak and wrote about it so eloquently, with humor, antidotes, and descriptions of each park’s unique beauty, was a treat. Many themes run through the book; conservation, climate change, online dating, race, technology and being connected… they are all discussed thoughtfully, without judgement, but with refreshing candor. I loved it, but my views align very similarly. I can imagine skeptics reading it a little differently. Great book.

2 people found this helpful

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Donna S

Book Review

Reviewed in the United States on April 20, 2024

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I am really loving this book. I love that it’s not the usual take on national parks, but has great information about each one.

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Ron Pentz

National Park Insights

Reviewed in the United States on September 25, 2023

Verified Purchase

Personal stories of author's one year journey through the national parks.
Weaves personal aspects such as solitude and listening to nature and relates it to his childhood.
Well written easy read.

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Mom in Texas

NOT a national parks guide book, but a fantastic read!

Reviewed in the United States on January 15, 2022

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I love our national parks, and I enjoy collecting travel books that explain in detail all the amazing things you can see and do when you visit the parks. This is NOT one of those books! I think that expectation is why some reviewers were disappointed, but it's right there in the title -- this is a STORY about the author's "journey" through the parks and how it impacted him. I personally appreciated this twist on the typical national parks book because it is unique, not just another book like we have all read before.

As I read "Leave Only Footprints", it caused me to laugh (a lot), cry (a little), and stop to think about a number of issues that I may have never considered before. It didn't necessarily describe trails I have hiked or sights I have seen when I visited the parks, allowing me to relive those moments from my own past, but it did encourage me to think back to those visits and look at them from a different perspective. It also gave me the motivation to approach future visits to the parks with a more thoughtful and reflective attitude rather than simply seeking to achieve certain goals or check off experiences from a "must do" list.

While some people have complained about the personal stories and reflections that Conor Knighton includes throughout the book, I think that's what makes it special. By the time I got to the end, I was rooting for him to find love again, and I felt like I knew him as a person and not just as an expert sharing facts with me. I would highly recommend this book to anyone who enjoys and appreciates our national parks, and as you read it, expect to be not only entertained but also inspired to look at the parks in a different way!

10 people found this helpful

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Sharon in PA

Enjoyable Reading

Reviewed in the United States on March 17, 2023

Verified Purchase

This is not my usual choice in reading, as I much prefer fiction. But it was selected by my book club. And the other but is, I thoroughly enjoyed reading it! The fun, witty humor, the historical facts, and lots of stories make this an enjoyable and adventurous book, encompassing the author's year of travels through all of America's national parks.

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Mills

Uplifting

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on January 13, 2022

Verified Purchase

If you’re looking for a detailed guide to America’s National Parks, this isn’t the book for you.However, if your looking for some uplifting content with amazing facts about nature and the history of some of the parks - pick it up!
Conor Knighton’s narrative is engaging, beautiful, and funny. I read a chapter a day and I always seemed to be happier after reading. It’s definitely fuelled my excitement to go exploring and travelling to see the amazing sights he’s written about

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