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When Champagne Became French: Wine and the Making of a National Identity (The Johns Hopkins University Studies in Historical and Political Science, 121) Paperback – Illustrated, September 1, 2007

by Kolleen M. Guy (Author)
4.3 4.3 out of 5 stars 8 ratings
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Winner of the 2002 Manuscript Award from Phi Alpha ThetaWinner of the Gourmand World Cookbook Awards for English Wine, Best Wine History Book, and Best Book on French WineWinner of the Clicquot Wine Book of the Year Competition

Winner of the Outstanding Manuscript Award from Phi Alpha Theta, this work explains how nationhood emerges by viewing countries as cultural artifacts, a product of "invented traditions." In the case of France, scholars sharply disagree, not only over the nature of French national identity but also over the extent to which diverse and sometimes hostile provincial communities became integrated into the nation. In When Champagne Became French: Wine and the Making of a National Identity, Kolleen M. Guy offers a new perspective on this debate by looking at one of the central elements in French national culture―luxury wine―and the rural communities that profited from its production.

Focusing on the development of the champagne industry between 1820 and 1920, Guy explores the role of private interests in the creation of national culture and in the nation-building process. Drawing on concepts from social and cultural history, she shows how champagne helped fuel the revolution in consumption as social groups searched for new ways to develop cohesion and to establish status. By the end of the nineteenth century, Guy concludes, the champagne-producing provinces in the department of Marne had developed a rhetoric of French identity that promoted its own marketing success as national. This ability to mask local interests as national concerns convinced government officials of the need, at both national and international levels, to protect champagne as a French patrimony.

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Previous page
  1. Part of series
    The Johns Hopkins University Studies in Historical and Political Science
  2. Print length
    280 pages
  3. Language
    English
  4. Publisher
    Johns Hopkins University Press
  5. Publication date
    September 1, 2007
  6. Dimensions
    5.5 x 0.73 x 9 inches
  7. ISBN-10
    080188747X
  8. ISBN-13
    978-0801887475
  9. See all details
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Editorial Reviews

Review

Excellent book.
―Harry W. Paul, Journal of Modern History

The denouement of Kolleen Guy's fascinating book is the violent explosion known as the 'revolution of Champagne' in 1911. How the revolt occurred is the heart of this skillful study of a region's economy and society and its relationship to the nation state.
―Thomas Brennan, Journal of Social History

A strong contribution to our understanding of the processes by which French national identity was constructed.
―James. R. Lehning, Journal of Interdisciplinary History

[Guy] convincingly describes how the circumstances surrounding the evolution of this regional beverage explain changes within French society . . . Students writing research papers in the fields of gastronomy would find this an excellent model of how they should approach similar topics.
―Massachusetts Beverage Business

Guy's fascinating book . . . traces in extensive detail the forces at work to transform this formerly regional product into a world-recognized symbol of French patrimony, elitism, and spirit. In lively style, Guy chronicles the history of champagne production in France and, in turn, the history of France itself through eras of industrialization and war. All readers will find this book absorbing: history buffs, novices to the bubbly, and full-fledged experts.
―Janine Sutherlin, France Today

A fascinating study of champagne in the years before the Great War . . . Guy makes us consider the current popularity of products which, like champagne, have a strong regional identity and their increasing centrality to contemporary France's sense of identity.
―Times Literary Supplement

A fascinating book . . . [Guy] demonstrates how a region with few environmental advantages for grape and wine production was able not only to succeed but to become synonymous with grace, style, and joyful gatherings.
―Choice

Guy's illustrated book is a well-researched look at one of France's proudest achievements.
―Lori D. Kranz, Bloomsbury Review

The first modern scholarly study of the production, consumption, and representation of champagne. Guy's prose is both inviting and accessible, deftly integrating theories from sociology, anthropology, philosophy, economics, and cultural history in a coherent, persuasive, and analytical narrative. When Champagne Became French is both scholarly and readable.
―W. Scott Haine, Holy Names College, California

Review

The first modern scholarly study of the production, consumption, and representation of champagne. Guy's prose is both inviting and accessible, deftly integrating theories from sociology, anthropology, philosophy, economics, and cultural history in a coherent, persuasive, and analytical narrative. When Champagne Became French is both scholarly and readable.

-- W. Scott Haine

Product details

  • Publisher ‏ : ‎ Johns Hopkins University Press (September 1, 2007)
  • Language ‏ : ‎ English
  • Paperback ‏ : ‎ 280 pages
  • ISBN-10 ‏ : ‎ 080188747X
  • ISBN-13 ‏ : ‎ 978-0801887475
  • Item Weight ‏ : ‎ 12.8 ounces
  • Dimensions ‏ : ‎ 5.5 x 0.73 x 9 inches
  • Customer Reviews:
    4.3 4.3 out of 5 stars 8 ratings

About the author

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Kolleen M. Guy

Kolleen M. Guy

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Kolleen M. Guy is a writer, historian, and professor. She is a specialist on the history of food and wine in Europe. Currently, she serves as the Ricardo Romo Distinguished Professor in the Honors College at the University of Texas at San Antonio.

Learn more at: http://www.kolleenguy.com/index.html

Customer reviews

4.3 out of 5 stars
4.3 out of 5
8 global ratings

Top reviews from the United States

El Poet
5.0 out of 5 stars Bubbly fun
Reviewed in the United States on January 23, 2015
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As bubbly as its subject matter, a heady and informative jaunt through the history of Champagne, wine in general, and the Europe that gave it its genesis. An amazing, fun read.
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BW
4.0 out of 5 stars Engaging history of the many meanings of "Champagne"
Reviewed in the United States on October 20, 2019
This is the last of the books from my academic backlog. It took me perhaps seven years to read them all. That's how much reading is assigned in the college I attended. Anyway, this book is about the production and marketing of the sparkling wine known as "Champagne" that is produced in the region of France known as "Champagne" by the people living there known as "Champenois". Making it more confusing (for them and me), none of these three categories were fixed and/or rigid at the time, depending on who you asked. That's the point of the book. 　

It is a mix of economic, national, regional, social, geographical, and nutritional themes. No wonder the laws about the beverage grew so complicated. It is divided into five primary chapters sandwiched between an introduction and a conclusion. These sections can be summarized as:
2. Marketing champagne
3. Producing champagne
4. Protecting champagne
5. Defining champagne
6. Fighting over champagne
　
The book describes in the first chapter how champagne became a big deal even though its characteristic bubbles were originally considered a trick to cover the taste of bad wine. I found that to be a fun little fact.
　
The rest of the book goes into a conflict between vine-growers and sparkling-wine-produces, the vignerons and negociants and the two of them together (or not) against those from outside their region. So the bulk of the book is about this conflict. As a novelist, it appeared to me as a Decoy-Protagonist thing because it starts with the negociants but shifts in focus and sympathy to the vignerons.
　
Apparently, it is really difficult to grow grapes in the Marne because of the thin, chalky soil and more so when the weather is bad. Even if you get a big harvest and good wine the market for ordinary wine from the region at the time did not fetch a good price. Then there was one problem after another; a shifting market, phylloxera, competition with grapes and wine from other regions (even after a national demarcation made this illegal) and then World War I. Indeed, the vignerons of the region known as "Champagne" had a raw deal in this time period according to this book.
　
Despite this, the author, Kolleen M. Guy, makes the argument that this is not a struggle originated in class conflict. Labor vs capital is not what's going on (at least, not the primary thing). It is about a sense of regional identity within a national identity and defending what they see as both a regional treasure and a national legacy. Ms. Guy states that the average vigneron was more likely to get along with a negociant who was their neighbor then a vigneron who was not (this is such a gross oversimplification that I fear it is misleading but I'm trying to keep this review short).
　
It's clear that Miss. Guy did a lot of research. References are made to police reports, peasant petitions, political posters, records of the minutes from many meetings of many organizations, quotes from various people of various standings, and also comparisons with the scholarly works of historians and others who have written on this subject. The appendix and notes section could be their own chapter by length. The newspaper parody "War of the Two Beans" was particular poignant.
　
The history of the various "champagnes" is weaved into a story. It is an engaging story. I didn't want to look up "champagne" the beverage on Wikipedia or something like that because I didn't want to spoil the ending for myself.
　
I have two hang-ups about this book, and the first is the gratuitous French. There are a lot of French words used here that are not defined. Sometimes a quote will be only 90% translated into English. While Ms. Guy does define terms like "terroir", "vigneron" and "negociant" these are the exception rather than the norm. I had to look up what "mevente" meant, a drop in sales.

The second hang up is the lack of section subtitles. The chapters themselves are labelled but sub sections are not. They are demarcated by a space and a special symbol to detonate a shift in subject but without a label it impossible to see at a glance the nature of the shift. This limits the book's utility as a reference. Which is a shame considering the great information here.
　
Trickster Eric Novels gives "When Champagne Became French" a B+
2 people found this helpful
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Rebecca L. Tushnet
4.0 out of 5 stars Useful history of a major GI
Reviewed in the United States on December 15, 2005
In light of persistent international debates over whether and how nations should protect geographical indications, I found When Champagne Became French a useful read. Guy tells the story of the nineteenth- and early twentieth-century conflicts over the definition of champagne and, in part, the definition of Frenchness as something connected to but distinct from the different parts of France.

The concept of terroir, something like the soul of the soil, that supposedly gives certain foodstuffs their unique qualities was much up for debate during the period, whereas currently the EU and France in particular give unquestioned legal protection to terms like "champagne." Guy points out that, although often understood as a fight between capital and labor, the at-times violent disputes between vine-growers and winemakers in the Champagne region were more complicated than that. Vine-growers in the core areas of the Marne were opposed both to bottlers who wanted to use grapes from other places to make champagne and to fellow vine-growers in those other places who benefited from that practice. Meanwhile, Marne bottlers also argued that the designation champagne should be legally protected, but they wanted to limit the definition to sparkling wine bottled in the area, regardless of the source of grapes.

Guy's story thus highlights champagne as an industrial product - not just because it requires a second processing to add the famous bubbles, but also because its production and consumption were profoundly affected by changes in transportation and modern advertising that helped make champagne the beverage of celebration and of Frenchness. The book is marred by repetitions of phrases, as if a series of journal articles had been simply stitched together, though I don't think these chapters were in fact published elsewhere. Nonetheless, I learned a fair amount about the social construction of terroir, a concept that supposedly represents a natural and immutable connection among an area of land, its inhabitants, and the products they produce.
11 people found this helpful
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Benedita Camara
5.0 out of 5 stars Five Stars
Reviewed in the United Kingdom on February 1, 2016
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excellent
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