very well-written, as one would expect from a Professor at Cambridge University. He helps make the world of surfing in Hawaii 'come alive.' As someone with a Ph.D in Hawaiian culture, there are some mistakes in his interpretations, particularly about Captain Cook, but this is pretty much expected in books about Hawaii, and overall his writing style and subject makes this a very worthwhile read, for those of you who want to learn more about surfing, more about Hawaii or simply read a great book to take you away from wherever you are right now, for the time it takes you to read it at least.

The sequel 'Stealing the Wave', which focuses on a fight, is not as good IMO, and neither of them are - of course - as good as days in person on the North Shore, and the freedom to be there, or wherever you want to be, whenever you want. A little Huna here (apols. I have been learning about Huna for Q some time). It reminds us of the importance of focusing on what you want, define the result you want, then go for it. As long as we are in alignment with God's will (implicit in the title, but not discussed in the book) we will get it. If we do not get what we want, then obviously it is a sign to realign the result you REALLY TRUELY want, not to mention the method. This book is largely Oahu-centred, but Andy Martin does mention Kauai. I am reminded of the recent, tragic, accidental death of Kauai surfer Andy Irons of Hanalei near Princeville, and the 'Circle in the Sea' his friends and the boards made for him to commemmorate his accidental passing.

To sum up, the title of this book illuminates the possibilities of surfing for us in its birthplace, the Hawaiian islands. This book should really be read in conjuction with a true study of Huna, as it was practised in ancient times, to illuminate further. Sadly there are none of those studies now available.

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CRAIG

THIS BOOK RATES AS HIGH AS THE BARRELS ANDY WRITES ABOUT.

Reviewed in the United States on July 21, 1998

A great book about surfing, people, travel and polynesian history. It's both laid back and pumping at the same time and any kind of surfer would get a good feeling from reading it.

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Mike Scott

Surf's up

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on September 8, 2020

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This book got me into surfing in 1993..never looked back...
When I went to Hawai and the North Shore I felt like I was "in" the book. Michael Willis sums up life perfectly

Katherine van Haeften

A book worth resurfacing!

Reviewed in the United Kingdom on November 29, 2015

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This book was the first adult book my twin boys read around 18 years ago. They were mad about surfing and it came out just at the right time for them to make the transition from teen fiction. Of course they had no idea that its author was a Cambridge University lecturer.
I have just reordered it for a 15 year old surfer - and it has stood the test of time as a well written great read.

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