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Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell: A True Story of Violence, Corruption, and the Soul of Surfing Kindle Edition

4.1 4.1 out of 5 stars 804 ratings

A finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction

Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, is surfer and former war reporter Chas Smith’s wild and unflinching look at the high-stakes world of surfing on Oahu’s North Shore—a riveting, often humorous, account of beauty, greed, danger, and crime.

For two months every winter, when Pacific storms make landfall, swarms of mainlanders, Brazilians, Australians, and Europeans flock to Oahu’s paradisiacal North Shore in pursuit of some of the greatest waves on earth for surfing’s Triple Crown competition. Chas Smith reveals how this influx transforms a sleepy, laid-back strip of coast into a lawless, violent, drug-addled, and adrenaline-soaked mecca.

Smith captures this exciting and dangerous place where locals, outsiders, the surf industry, and criminal elements clash in a fascinating look at class, race, power, money, and crime, set within one of the most beautiful places on earth. The result is a breathtaking blend of crime and adventure that captures the allure and wickedness of this idyllic golden world.

Editorial Reviews

From Publishers Weekly

This debut effort from Smith, a war correspondent turned surfing journalist with a cruel, sometimes witty eye, is a mix of reportage and gonzo journalism for the surfing set. Mixing shameless, fey bluster that he dubs Trash Prose and occasionally trenchant observation, Smith delves into the scene surrounding the big-money surfing contests on Oahu, Hawaii's legendary North Shore. As the pro circuit arrives for the winter wave season, Smith sketches an exposé of the tensions between local Hawaiian surfers and low-level gangsters and the established surfing professionals, surfwear brand representatives, and out-of-towners during this seasonal demographic change. Smith's favorite subject, however, is himself: he sees himself as an outlaw raconteur whose articles garner so much resentment he gets roughed up at a party. He also provides endless descriptions of his wardrobe—he calls his style his version of Island Dandy, which is purposefully at odds with everything Oahu's North Shore stands for. If Hunter S. Thompson circa Hell's Angels merged with a fashion critic to write about surfing for Maxim, the result might be similar. Smith's approach is myopic, writing for an audience that already knows the sport and the names. There are some astute observations (particularly his analysis of why surfing is essentially a lonely sport), but ultimately the book fails to reveal much beyond the author's considerable self-regard. Agent: Ryan D. Harbage, Fischer-Harbage Agency (Dec.)

From Booklist

Surfing journalist Smith grabs us with his first sentence: “There is a gun pressed to my temple.” This was in 2006 in Beirut, the result of Smith’s post–9/11 urge to become a globe-trotting adventure journalist. After that incident (it involved Hezbollah), Smith decided to dial it down a bit and, being a longtime surfing fan, turn to writing about surfing. This exciting and revelatory book focuses on Hawaii’s North Shore, one of the major hot spots of competitive surfing, with side trips into the history of Hawaii, a history speckled with blood (Captain Cook, among others, met his demise in the island paradise). Smith explores not just the allure and popularity of surfing, but also the business side of the sport—the sale of surfing gear is a multimillion-dollar industry—and the drugs and violence that sweep into the North Shore when the surfing competitions come to Hawaii. Told in an energetic, first-person style that one of Smith’s magazine editors dubbed “trash prose,” the book is a sure-fire hit with fans of surfing literature. --David Pitt

Product details

  • ASIN ‏ : ‎ B00BATIKLQ
  • Publisher ‏ : ‎ Dey Street Books; Reprint edition (November 19, 2013)
  • Publication date ‏ : ‎ November 19, 2013
  • Language ‏ : ‎ English
  • File size ‏ : ‎ 1322 KB
  • Text-to-Speech ‏ : ‎ Enabled
  • Screen Reader ‏ : ‎ Supported
  • Enhanced typesetting ‏ : ‎ Enabled
  • X-Ray ‏ : ‎ Enabled
  • Word Wise ‏ : ‎ Enabled
  • Print length ‏ : ‎ 259 pages
  • Customer Reviews:
    4.1 4.1 out of 5 stars 804 ratings

About the author

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Chas Smith
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Chas Smith is the author of the best-selling Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell, a finalist for the PEN Center USA Award for Nonfiction, Cocaine + Surfing, Reports From Hell and Blessed are the Bank Robbers, which was selected as one of the best crime books of the year by The New York Times.

Chas began his writing career as a foreign correspondent, penning pieces for Vice, Paper and Blackbook, amongst others, from Yemen, Lebanon, Syria, Somalia, Azerbaijan and Colombia which led to a brief career as a war correspondent for Current TV.

After being kidnapped by Hezbollah during the 2006 Israel-Lebanon war he transitioned to surf journalism where he was a featured writer at the brash Stab before becoming Editor at Large at Surfing Magazine. There he developed a reputation as the most controversial voices in the space. Matt Warshaw, author of the Encyclopedia of Surfing, calls him, “Bright and hyper-ironic.” William Finnegan, Pulitzer Prize winning author of Barbarian Days, says that Chas, “…calls it like he sees it and in surfing that’s not usually the case.”

Chas Smith is co-owner of a surf website, BeachGrit.

Customer reviews

4.1 out of 5 stars
804 global ratings

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Customers say

Customers find the book enjoyable and entertaining. They appreciate the insightful descriptions of surfing and the unique culture of Oahu's North Shore. The humor is described as hilarious, witty, and dark. Readers describe the style as interesting and capture the vibe of the extreme North Shore culture through the eyes of a writer. The pacing is described as good, with descriptions of the big wave surfers, the surf industry, and the culture on the North Shore. However, some customers feel the author is overly self-absorbed and annoying. Overall, the story quality is described as rambling about nothing, never coming together as an interesting story.

AI-generated from the text of customer reviews

78 customers mention "Readability"69 positive9 negative

Customers find the book enjoyable and engaging. They say it's a good read for both surfers and non-surfers to get a first-hand view of the North Shore surf. The author is described as a great storyteller who keeps them entertained with vivid descriptions. The feuds, violence, and thrills are all well-told in vivid detail.

"...This book is a great read for surfers but ESPECIALLY for non-surfers who want to know why this place and these people create a hellish paradise." Read more

"The subtitle of this book is 'A True Story...' and it likely is mostly true...." Read more

"...Excellent read for someone who has been there or planning to go. Will have me eyes really open this year when I go...." Read more

"...Entertaining, in some ways, yes...." Read more

39 customers mention "Insight"39 positive0 negative

Customers find the book insightful and humorous. They appreciate the descriptions of surfing and Hawaiian culture. The book provides a good introduction to modern-day competitors and reefs. Readers also enjoy the succinct descriptions of places and enjoy escaping into the book for a day.

"...I have been there many times and felt this was an accurate description and much more fun that the place itself...." Read more

"...the North shore even if he has never been there for it is surfing's most sacred ground...." Read more

"...mind and ours all around these subjects, all the while charming and charmed...." Read more

"...Ditto for the topic of this memoir; it will be riveting for surfing aficianados who aren't already in the know, but for the average reader, it will..." Read more

15 customers mention "Humor"15 positive0 negative

Customers enjoy the book's humor. They find it hilarious, witty, and entertaining. The author uses dark humor to discuss island politics and what really goes on in the surf. Readers appreciate the author's ability to be cocky and endearing at times. They praise the trash prose and poetic passages mixed in with lengthy narratives.

"...Smith's funny fashion elements and his ability to be cocky and endearing at times...." Read more

"...All the dandyish humor, self-referencing, and self-deprecating commentary serves as a hilarious chaser to all that darkness...." Read more

"...there are many 5-star, deeply felt descriptive passages that are downright poetic, but they’re mixed in with lengthy, disjointed, self-referential..." Read more

"...I loved the fast paced, wry style that kept me alternately laughing, thinking, questioning, and cringing throughout my marathon reading session...." Read more

8 customers mention "Style"8 positive0 negative

Customers enjoy the book's style. They find it interesting and well-captured of the North Shore culture through Chas Smith's eyes. They appreciate his funny fashion elements and cocky personality.

"...I love Chas Smith's funny fashion elements and his ability to be cocky and endearing at times...." Read more

"...Fear again. But his hair looks better now. Style, and Fear...." Read more

"...I loved the fast paced, wry style that kept me alternately laughing, thinking, questioning, and cringing throughout my marathon reading session...." Read more

"...The rest of the book looks new. I'll keep it because it's too late to return it and get another one before Christmas...." Read more

6 customers mention "Pacing"6 positive0 negative

Customers find the book's pacing engaging. They appreciate the descriptions of big wave surfers, the surf industry, and the culture on the North Shore. The inside scoop on the surfing pipeline makes Pipeline even more intriguing. Readers appreciate the profiles of various prominent surfers and the well-written primer on waves and how surfers surf.

"...profiles of various prominent surfers; - a well-written primer on waves and how surfers surf them; and -..." Read more

"...day surf competitors, very good descriptions of the reefs, the big waves of pipeline, under currents, and the pacific ocean in this particular area..." Read more

"...His descriptions of the big wave surfers, the surf industry and the culture on the North Shore are eye-openers...." Read more

"...Makes Pipeline that much more intriguing." Read more

29 customers mention "Writing quality"17 positive12 negative

Customers have mixed reviews about the writing quality of the book. Some find it easy to read and appreciate the author's non-apologetic approach. Others feel the writing is poor, trashy, and needs tighter editing.

"...The book is a really fast and easy read and it holds one's attention all the way through. This is because the author is an excellent raconteur...." Read more

"...What I dislike about this one is what so many seem to like, his "trash prose" style...." Read more

"...writing at its very best, and there are many 5-star, deeply felt descriptive passages that are downright poetic, but they’re mixed in with lengthy,..." Read more

"Entertaining book. Good writing. Chas Smith is a lazy writer. He is blessed with gobs of talent but he's the classic underachiever...." Read more

6 customers mention "Author content"0 positive6 negative

Customers dislike the author's content. They feel the author is self-absorbed and the exposé is limited to a couple of locals.

"The author is a bit too full of himself. Enjoyed the story. Eight seven six five four three two one" Read more

"The author is a bit full of himself and the exposé is limited to a couple of locals on the North Shore. Nothing too exciting." Read more

"...After the first paragraph I disliked the book and hated the author. I though it might get better when he stops talking about himself. It doesn't" Read more

"Disliked the author from the 1st sentence. Hope the locals kicked his haole ass" Read more

6 customers mention "Story quality"0 positive6 negative

Customers find the story rambling and lacking cohesion. They say some stories are embellished, but overall it's a same-old story. The title is overstated for the content inside, and the chapter names are confusing.

"...I enjoyed every bit of it, aside from the somewhat confusing chapter names, it is rich in it's story of Hawaii and for anyone who has been to the..." Read more

"Great book. Some of the stories are embellished, but it's interesting all the same...." Read more

"...Nothing too exciting." Read more

"...The title is way too adventurous for the content inside...." Read more

Facts about the surfing world
5 out of 5 stars
Facts about the surfing world
The author doesn’t pull any punches and is not afraid of divulging facts about the inside surfing world. He doesn’t sugar coat things. This read tells you how the surfing world is from someone who’s in it, how it feels to be at an event and in it. The danger of being inside and outside of the water, outing the jerks and those who are nice. Amusing facts about himself as well. Very informative and eye opening. I thoroughly enjoyed it.
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Top reviews from the United States

  • Reviewed in the United States on November 20, 2013
    This book is an easy and thrilling ride. I enjoyed every bit of it, aside from the somewhat confusing chapter names, it is rich in it's story of Hawaii and for anyone who has been to the North Shore does an incredible job of reminding you how hellish and beautiful it is all at the same time. I have been there many times and felt this was an accurate description and much more fun that the place itself. I love Chas Smith's funny fashion elements and his ability to be cocky and endearing at times. His flow has a distinct style and in a time where there is a lack of journalistic integrity I appreciate Smiths ability to recognize his own battle with dark influences of corporations and the empathy he provides for the Hawaiian's feeling fiercely protective of their land. He actually humanizes some of the darker forces that dominate "country" and gives you a true inside peak as to why things are they way they are and maybe that's just how it's supposed to be. This book is a great read for surfers but ESPECIALLY for non-surfers who want to know why this place and these people create a hellish paradise.
    2 people found this helpful
    Report
  • Reviewed in the United States on December 14, 2013
    The subtitle of this book is 'A True Story...' and it likely is mostly true. I think the author took some liberties with time and events but likely not in a way to alter it much.
    Any surfer has more than a passing familiarity with the North shore even if he has never been there for it is surfing's most sacred ground. All who have surfed there, or attempted to, or who have kept up with the scene are also aware of its peculiar form of unofficially sanctioned frontier justice. Some would call it localism, but this is a far more highly evolved system of justice, retribution and surf socialism that has evolved around the world's most iconic waves in one of the world's most iconic tropical paradises, and Chas Smith has come to town to break it down for the lay reader....and does a really good job of it.

    After giving us a taste of who he is: Thrill seeker, Journalist, Crap stirrer, Dandy, Surfer, World Traveler, and so on,the author proposes to take us on a journey through the labyrinthine inner workings of North Shore's high stakes, big wave surf scene.

    The problem is one of a finite resource, the world's best waves; a discrete area, seven miles of prime surfing; a near-infinite source of filthy lucre, corporate purveyors of globally consumed surf-themed goods, a put-upon minority with huge muscles, steely nerves, amazing physical skill and few compunctions about resorting to violence; the self-proclaimed rulers of their beloved, besieged surfing kingdom.
    The solution is an unarmed mob, roughly organized into an elite cadre of enforcers meting out justice based upon a rough calculus that takes into account the respect one has earned on the North Shore, surf-cred, corporate sponsorship, indigineity, the ability to take it and dish it out, and social connections.
    Underlying this is a subculture of drugs and ripoffs of various kinds done by people often not directly involved in the surf scene but who are woven into the social culture through blood ties and affiliation.

    What Mr. Smith has done is to paint us this picture through observation and through the eyes of various larger than life characters who are the key players in the scene. Even though he makes it read like a story, this is almost an ethnography based upon the Hawaiian big wave scene circa 2009.

    The book is a really fast and easy read and it holds one's attention all the way through. This is because the author is an excellent raconteur. Technically, he's only mostly literate though, and I'm shocked that Harper Collins didn't give him a better editor. For, the book is littered with numerous errors obviously resulting from over-reliance upon a spell-check program, and the author's unfamiliarity with word usage in general sometimes trips him up, e.g. on page 208 he uses the words compliance and implicit when he means complicit, with this sort of thing occuring throughout the book. At first it is jarring and then irritating.
    Still, the author makes a valiant attempt at literary flight by directly refering to Joseph Conrad and Jacques Derrida, and my hat goes off to him for that.

    This is a book I really looked forward to receiving because I've been engaged in a lot of rather dry reading of late and wanted a change. This was just the tonic. I received it yesterday morning, began it yesterday afternoon and finished it yesterday night with the thought that it would've been a wonderful accompaniment to a transpacific flight, indeed.
    17 people found this helpful
    Report
  • Reviewed in the United States on February 8, 2014
    Bought this book based on a recommendation from a family member who spent a vacation in the North Shore. Been to the North Shore myself at least 8 times and was very surprised to read about how it really is. Going to Hawaii again this year and will take another trip to the North Shore however my perspective will now be entirely different. Have not finished the book but it certainly is surprising that the North Shore is not as laid back as one would believe it is. Excellent read for someone who has been there or planning to go. Will have me eyes really open this year when I go. One thing is for sure the locals do not have what we would think to be a good sense of humor. In all my past visits to the North Shore I never experienced or saw any troubles but behind the scenes it's really not the "Paradise" that one would perceive it is.
    One person found this helpful
    Report

Top reviews from other countries

  • Flor
    4.0 out of 5 stars Entertaining reading
    Reviewed in Spain on July 28, 2022
    It fun and entertaining to read. Gives a realistic view of the North Shore vibe and idiosyncrasies, with a bit of the author’s own psychological dilemmas. Nice.
  • Marie MacDonald
    5.0 out of 5 stars Thanks!
    Reviewed in Canada on October 6, 2020
    Product arrived as described and ahead of schedule. Thanks!
  • Rich O
    5.0 out of 5 stars Fear and loathing on the North Shore
    Reviewed in the United Kingdom on March 3, 2021
    Author, Chas Smith, lifts the veil of the supposedly glamorous international surf scene to reveal its dark and dirty heart. A gripping and very well written tale that was genuinely hard to out down. Smith himself, however, seems to revel in being a pain in the arse and it took me a couple chapters to get over certain vacuous aspects of his character.
  • Gabe
    5.0 out of 5 stars Voice
    Reviewed in Australia on January 6, 2020
    Chas stylistically is one of the more interesting writers in the surf world. We need him. No more of this BS mumbo jumbo that's getting spit out by most of the mags.
  • lulu
    5.0 out of 5 stars Welcome to Paradise, Now Go to Hell: Addictive!
    Reviewed in Germany on February 17, 2014
    Not a surfer myself, just a fan of the sport, but I was so interested in the spectacle and BTS!
    I'm charmed and swooned away by his cockiness (in all honesty) and I laughed so hard sometimes about his anecdotes! The book is well written (what else is to expect of someone who named his little child Hemingway) and in combination to what he has to say I became absolutely hooked on this book! Loved the inside scoop, loved his writing skills, adored his honesty and courage, and his attitude towards everything is refreshing!

    Note: English is a foreign language after my german mother tongue and I was able to follow his style and vocabular fluently.

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