The most interesting books about food, the industrialization of food, and the fight for the future of food

In the first half of the twentieth century, Russian botanist Nikolay Vavilov travelled the world collecting seeds representative of agricultural biodiversity.

In light of hunger and famine in the newly formed Soviet Union, Vavilov hoped to find and create hardy strains that could survive the Soviet climate and alleviate hunger. What he found, however, was not just the importance of saving seeds but also the cultural knowledge and traditions necessary for these seeds to flourish.

Nabhan’s retelling of Vavilov’s travels shows why simply maintaining a seed bank is not enough. Instead, we must also preserve traditional knowledge along with the seeds. To me, Vavilov’s quest reveals the importance of food democracy, that people maintain control of the foods they eat.

In Fast Food Nation, journalist Eric Schlosser traces the growth of fast food across the US and shows how franchises have standardized both agricultural and social life in the process.

As the demand for McDonalds’ fries and hamburgers soared, for example, farmers adapted potato and meat production to strict new specifications. Similarly, fast food franchises reshaped labor practices in the process.

Schlosser’s book was the first to reveal the extent to which fast food changed environmental, social, and health landscapes in the US. And, more important, we see how much fast food—which promises choice—has instead reduced agricultural biodiversity and food choice in the process. 

What should we eat, and how do we choose? Where does our food come from?

In Omnivore’s Dilemma, Michael Pollan traces the origins of four meals to help answer this question. Each of these meals represents a food production system, big organic, industrial agriculture, for example. He takes us from a McDonald’s meal (hint: it’s corn) to a hunt.

In reading this book, I especially loved his investigative journalism, how he explored the environmental, social, and economic ramifications of each food and its system of production. 

Instead of merely critiquing existing food systems, Will Allen’s Good Food Revolution documents a path forward that he himself created in Milwaukee, WI.

After a career spanning professional basketball and food production, Allen created Growing Power, an urban farm in an impoverished area of Milwaukee focusing on fish and produce. More important, Growing Power helps local youth and addresses the systemic racism that many face.

What I especially love about this book is that Allen shows the power of urban agriculture to change lives. Many denigrate community gardens and similar projects, stating that they can’t feed everyone. True, but they do provide education, community, and opportunities, Allen and Growing Power show food democracy can change a community.

Foodtopia tells us about people and communities who taking control of their own food production.

Throughout US history, many groups have sought alternatives to the dominant food culture, including Thgoreau, the Nearings, and, more recently, millennials. While many of us would like to have food alternatives, it can be difficult to figure out how to do this.

Kelley’s book provides details and descriptions of how these back to the land movements worked against the grain and the choices they made in doing so. These stories and examples help us see that there are alternatives to existing food systems, then and now.